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King Otto's Castle

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 
Bridge, The T 
Casino Royale T 
Date Queen T 
Don Genaro Crack T 
Goodbye Mr. Bond T 
Leaving Las Vegas T 
Panama Red TR 
Phelp's Chevrolet T 
Plain But Good Hearted T 
Shaken Not Stirred T 
She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 
Sweat Band T 
Sweat Pants T 
Tarawassie Wiggle T 
Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 

King Otto's Castle 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,200'
Location: 34.0924, -116.1569 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,418
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 21, 2002
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Photo Credit: Choncho

Description 

King Otto's Castle is a large imposing formation directly behind some campsites with numerous routes from 5.7 to 5.12 on it's south and west faces. Face climbing is primarily the name of the game here but a few decent cracks exist as well.

Due to it's location remember to be courteous and ask before climbing here if the campsites are occupied.

Some of the better routes here include Sweat Band (5.10c), Goodbye Mr. Bond (5.10c), Casino Royale (5.11a) and Panama Red (5.11c TR).


Location 

Located in the center of the campground directly across the road from Condor Rock.


16 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',6],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for King Otto's Castle:
Phelp's Chevrolet   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Tarawassie Wiggle   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Leaving Las Vegas   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Goodbye Mr. Bond   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Sweat Band   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Casino Royale   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Panama Red   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in King Otto's Castle

Featured Route For King Otto's Castle
"Panama Red". <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Panama Red 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : King Otto's Castle
Panama Red runs up the dark desert patina between Quivering Savages and Sweat Band. Scramble up the initial slab to the base of a right-arching seam on the headwall. A ladder of steep, positive crimps runs up the seam and the face above. Originally a top-rope problem, it was retrobolted into a sport route in the early '90s by some of my compatriots as I stood watch on the summit. Alas, this so offended a local (who had no involvement or history with the route) that he chopped it back to a to...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of King Otto's Castle Slideshow Add Photo
King Otto's Castle (L-R) <br /> <br />1. Goodbye Mr. Bond (5.10c) <br />2. Quivering Savages (5.12) <br />3. Casino Royale (5.11a) <br />4. Sweat Band (5.10c) <br />5. Tarawassie Wiggle (5.10a) <br />6. Leaving Las Vegas (5.10b) <br />7. Plain But Good Hearted (5.6) <br />8. Shaken Not Stirred (5.8 R) <br />9. Date Queen (5.7)   <br />10. Sweat Pants (5.11c)
BETA PHOTO: King Otto's Castle (L-R)

1. Goodbye Mr. Bond (5.1...
King Otto's Castle-West Face. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: King Otto's Castle-West Face.
Photo by Blitzo.
Elizabeth Rodriguez (Sweat Band) on the left and Lonnie Rodriguez (Tarawassie Wiggle)on the right.
BETA PHOTO: Elizabeth Rodriguez (Sweat Band) on the left and L...
King Otto's Castle, South Face <br />Photo by Bob Gaines
BETA PHOTO: King Otto's Castle, South Face
Photo by Bob Gaines
Goodbye Mr. Bond (5.10c), Joshua Tree NP. Photo by Eric Odenthal.
Goodbye Mr. Bond (5.10c), Joshua Tree NP. Photo by...
Comments on King Otto's Castle Add Comment
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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 3, 2003

Approach through family site 31.

By Chris Collins
From: Quincy, California
Jan 5, 2011

What is the bolted route between Panama Red and Sweat Band? It uses the first two bolts of Sweat Band, then traverses up and left to a third bolt, then onto the seam of Panama Red. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

By Bob Gaines
Jan 5, 2011

Hi Chris:

That route is called Casino Royale (5.11a), and its listed here on Mountain Project.