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King Otto's Castle
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Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) 
Bridge, The 
Casino Royale 
Date Queen 
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Goodbye Mr. Bond 
Leaving Las Vegas 
Panama Red 
Phelp's Chevrolet 
Plain But Good Hearted 
Shaken Not Stirred 
She Is Helga, I Am Sven 
Sweat Band 
Sweat Pants 
Tarawassie Wiggle 
Uncle Len's Pot Farm 

King Otto's Castle 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,200'
Lat, Long: 34.0924, -116.1569 Map
Page Views: 9,276. Good page?   
Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 21, 2002

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Photo Credit: Choncho

Description 

King Otto's Castle is a large imposing formation directly behind some campsites with numerous routes from 5.7 to 5.12 on it's south and west faces. Face climbing is primarily the name of the game here but a few decent cracks exist as well.

Due to it's location remember to be courteous and ask before climbing here if the campsites are occupied.

Some of the better routes here include Sweat Band (5.10c), Goodbye Mr. Bond (5.10c), Casino Royale (5.11a) and Panama Red (5.11c TR).


Location 

Located in the center of the campground directly across the road from Condor Rock.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for King Otto's Castle:
Phelp's Chevrolet   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Tarawassie Wiggle   5.10a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Leaving Las Vegas   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Goodbye Mr. Bond   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Sweat Band   5.10c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Casino Royale   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Panama Red   5.11c     TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Browse More Classics in King Otto's Castle

Featured Route For King Otto's Castle
"Panama Red". <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Panama Red 5.11c  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : King Otto's Castle
Panama Red runs up the dark desert patina between Quivering Savages and Sweat Band. Scramble up the initial slab to the base of a right-arching seam on the headwall. A ladder of steep, positive crimps runs up the seam and the face above. Originally a top-rope problem, it was retrobolted into a sport route in the early '90s by some of my compatriots as I stood watch on the summit. Alas, this so offended a local (who had no involvement or history with the route) that he chopped it back to a to...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of King Otto's Castle Slideshow Add Photo
King Otto's Castle-West Face. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

BETA PHOTO: King Otto's Castle-West Face.
Photo by Blitzo.


King Otto's Castle, South Face <br />Photo by Bob Gaines

BETA PHOTO: King Otto's Castle, South Face
Photo by Bob Gaines


Elizabeth Rodriguez (Sweat Band) on the left and Lonnie Rodriguez (Tarawassie Wiggle)on the right.

BETA PHOTO: Elizabeth Rodriguez (Sweat Band) on the left and L...

King Otto's Castle (L-R) <br /> <br />1. Goodbye Mr. Bond (5.10c) <br />2. Quivering Savages (5.12) <br />3. Casino Royale (5.11a) <br />4. Sweat Band (5.10c) <br />5. Tarawassie Wiggle (5.10a) <br />6. Leaving Las Vegas (5.10b) <br />7. Plain But Good Hearted (5.6) <br />8. Shaken Not Stirred (5.8 R) <br />9. Date Queen (5.7)   <br />10. Sweat Pants (5.11c)

BETA PHOTO: King Otto's Castle (L-R)

1. Goodbye Mr. Bond (5.1...


Goodbye Mr. Bond (5.10c), Joshua Tree NP. Photo by Eric Odenthal.

Goodbye Mr. Bond (5.10c), Joshua Tree NP. Photo by...


Comments on King Otto's Castle Add Comment
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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 3, 2003

Approach through family site 31.

By Chris Collins
From: Quincy, California
Jan 5, 2011

What is the bolted route between Panama Red and Sweat Band? It uses the first two bolts of Sweat Band, then traverses up and left to a third bolt, then onto the seam of Panama Red. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

By Bob Gaines
Jan 5, 2011

Hi Chris:

That route is called Casino Royale (5.11a), and its listed here on Mountain Project.