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King Otto's Castle is a large imposing formation directly behind some campsites with numerous routes from 5.7 to 5.12 on it's south and west faces. Face climbing is primarily the name of the game here but a few decent cracks exist as well.
Located in the center of the campground directly across the road from Condor Rock.
16 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for King Otto's Castle:
Phelp's Chevrolet 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Leaving Las Vegas 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Goodbye Mr. Bond 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Sweat Band 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Casino Royale 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Panama Red 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For King Otto's Castle
Panama Red 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : King Otto's Castle
Panama Red runs up the dark desert patina between Quivering Savages and Sweat Band. Scramble up the initial slab to the base of a right-arching seam on the headwall. A ladder of steep, positive crimps runs up the seam and the face above. Originally a top-rope problem, it was retrobolted into a sport route in the early '90s by some of my compatriots as I stood watch on the summit. Alas, this so offended a local (who had no involvement or history with the route) that he chopped it back to a to...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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