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King of Hearts 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tricia Stetson
Page Views: 311
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 19, 2010

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Description 

Despite its uncommon length, King of Hearts is a bouldery route featuring two distinct crux sections, split by long stretches of fun, moderate slab climbing. While this route is sunny nearly all day, its proximity to the large juniper can make it a reasonable choice for a warm day, at least from the belayer’s point of view.



Stick clip the first bolt, and make difficult, off-balance moves to reach a small jug-ledge and a brief respite near the second bolt. More strenuous reaches lead to juggy flakes on the slab. Cruise nice pockets & big edges to the obvious bulge. Diminishing pockets lead over the bulge to a few desperate cranks to reach the slab. Easier edging leads to the anchor.

Location 

Immediately left of Action Candy, and immediately right of Back-up Binkie. Also the second bolted route from the right.

Protection 

~14 bolts to a 2BA. Stick clip recommended to protect bouldery moves at the start.


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By stvsmth
From: Lander, WY
May 12, 2012

You can set this up on TR from the top of Action Candy