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The Queen Scepter
Select Route:
King of Fools S 
Queen Scepter S 
Whistling Idiot S 

King of Fools 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jim Steagall & Ken Mills
Page Views: 241
Submitted By: Mike on Dec 1, 2008

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A decent route with a harder-than-it-looks-from-the-ground crux. Don't cheat by stemming out onto the ramp on the right.


Climb starts on the south side of Queen Scepter. Follow bolts up the face to crux bulge on the southeast arete, then thin, lower angle climbing to the anchor. Try not to cheat by stepping out onto the ramp that leads to Whistling Idiot.


Lots of bolts and a 2 bolt anchor. Rap the route to descend.

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