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King Mota 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kurt Smith
Page Views: 256
Submitted By: Jack Sparrow on Feb 23, 2014

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Description 

Climb an obvious grey streak near snott girls. Easy climbing to the 2nd bolt then engage a nice crux on small crimps and techy feet to the fourth bolt. This climb is a little contrived due to a massive flake feature that runs next to the face for the first three bolts. If you want a nice twelve face climb avoid using the flake at all. If you use the flake it goes around mid eleven. The upper half of the climb is pretty spicy but relatively safe (except for the move to the fourth clip blowing it could wreck your ankles.) Heady bolt spacing 15 to 20 feet between the bolts. Very fun technical climbing on this route with a bit of spice to boot.enjoy

Location 

The obvious grey streak a few routes to the right of snott girls

Protection 

Bolts around ten with anchor

Description 

Climb an obvious grey streak near snott girls. Easy climbing to the 2nd bolt then engage a nice crux on small crimps and techy feet to the fourth bolt. This climb is a little contrived due to a massive flake feature that runs next to the face for the first three bolts. If you want a nice twelve face climb avoid using the flake at all. If you use the flake it goes around mid eleven. The upper half of the climb is pretty spicy but relatively safe (except for the move to the fourth clip blowing it could wreck your ankles.) Heady bolt spacing 15 to 20 feet between the bolts. Very fun technical climbing on this route with a bit of spice to boot.enjoy

Protection 

Bolts around ten with anchor


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By BrianWS
Jan 19, 2015
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

Really fun climbing marred by bad bolt placement during the crux. The remainder of the bolts are well spaced, but not as likely to ruin your ankles.

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