Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches
FA: Forrest Wilcox
Page Views: 3,118 total · 23/month
Shared By: Forrest Wilcox on Dec 23, 2012
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

P1: Slab climb up (5.6) past one bolt and pull up onto a big ledge. Make an anchor here (depending on how you want to start your second pitch make an anchor at the base of the chimney or to the left).

P2: There are two options either go right and climb the bolted chimney (5.8+, refer to the chimney pictures) or for an easy variation go left and pull up onto the slab column from its left side (5.6), but I highly recommend doing the chimney. At the top of the chimney it helps to do a 180 and use the crack to pull onto the ledge. Once on the slab column follow 3 bolts and place some trad gear in between. Make a trad anchor in a horizontal crack once you pass the last bolt.

P3: trad climb straight up. Once you pull up onto a big ledge go left and find a big crack. Stem up the crack and then hand jam your way to another big ledge (5.7) and make an anchor somewhere on this ledge.

P4: climb the dihedral with a sotol at the bottom and you end up at the top next to a big old tree(5.8)

(The crack at the top of the climb has two old pitons in it and the last dihedral has one very old piton. This top-out was probably climbed in the 70s or 80s. This last pitch was once called the Ring Route and was rated 5.9)

Location Suggest change

This route is located directly left of Punch In The Nose and right of the off-widths. To get down either rappel Cross-trainer of walk off the top.

Protection Suggest change

There are 7 bolts. One set of cams, one set of nuts. ALL THE SPINNER BOLTS HAVE BEEN REPLACED!!!!!

Photos

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