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Enjoying a rest on King Me (5.11b). Red River Gorg...
Quintessential Red River Gorge sport climbing! Pumpy, sustained, pockets, sidepulls, this route has it all! From ground, leap to gain the overhanging start using pockets (jugs?) and generous edges. Moving up, you'll begin to feel the pump set in, but keep yourself together for thin technical moves to undercling (crux) and clip. Finish on slab to anchors.
(Cherish and savor every rest. Plenty of hardmen, not used to the Red's steepness and endurance demands, have humbly succumbed.)
The approach trail meets the wall at No Return (handcrack in black rock). Go right, pass-by The Underling (obvious recessed rockhouse with roof and hole at rear/right), and two bolted sport routes. King Me is the next bolted line and begins on the outward face/lip of an 8ft roof of sorts. Leap, or use a stepping stone to gain the route.
10 bolts. Anchors. Use at least a 60m rope.
BETA PHOTO: King Me, this line follows the path in between the...
Tall, sustained, and actually requires some techni...
|By Kris Gorny|
Jun 15, 2007
My absolute favorite 11b! This one alone is worth driving across few states.
|By Paul Corsaro|
From: Indianapolis, IN
May 27, 2008
possibility of decking if you fall at the second clip.
Oct 21, 2009
Classic, painfully classic. Thinking the pump alone is the crux of this route will only get you in trouble at the top.
|By Eric Hirst|
Nov 18, 2011
As of 11/11/11, the SS sport anchors at the top were getting pretty worn. We added an old bail biner to the mix. Very nice route.
From: North Carolina
Dec 12, 2011
Big fall potential (all air though) if you blow the crux. Exciting climbing the whole way up!
Aug 11, 2012
oh, i blew the crux and took the big fall. soft catch and its comfy though. super fun climbing. sporty!
From: Menomonie, Wisconsin
Nov 26, 2012
The route to go for at Eastern Sky Bridge!
This route should give you a little pump and it definitely provides great holds throughout.
A must do indeed!