King Lizard  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Clay Watson, Tyler Phillips New Route:  Yes Season:  spring, winter, fall Submitted By:  tenesmus on Jun 30, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Turning the corner to start up the arete. Just a ...

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Description 

From the little ledge belay on the Lizard Head wall, climb up and left into a dihedral. Do some cool moves left and through the crack system onto an arete. Clip a few bolts on the arete then trend back right to a fixed pin marking the bottom of the knife blade crack. Put in your choice of small pro with many options and do the slab boulder problem to the two bolt anchor.

Location 

Left of the face split by Blue Collar Crack is a dihedral system that is the start of the climb. You can leave the top anchor and walk up about 20 feet (roped) to a big ledge system and walk off. This ledge system also leads to the anchors at the top of the Redneck slab if you wanted to TR that or descend that way. Please also see the beta photo for the Lizard Head wall - its #7

Protection 

standard Wasatch rack with a few long runners and three bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A 70 meter rope lowers you back to the starting belay station.

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King Lizard

Alternate finish to King Lizard. Use long to extr...