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 ADVANCED
Lizard Head Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Day At The Office T 
Blue Collar Crack T 
Cashmere Crack T 
Delicacy T 
Drama 
Errant Edge T 
King Lizard T 
Manager's Special T 
Maverick Line T,TR 
Part Time Crack T 
Red Neck Slab T 
Squeeze My Lemon T 
Unknown Slab T 
Unknown Slab/Crack T 
Wings of Perception T 
Zesty T 
Zigzag T 
Unsorted Routes:

King Lizard 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Clay Watson, Tyler Phillips
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, winter, fall
Page Views: 1,138
Submitted By: tenesmus on Jun 30, 2008

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Turning the corner to start up the arete. Just a ...

Description 

From the little ledge belay on the Lizard Head wall, climb up and left into a dihedral. Do some cool moves left and through the crack system onto an arete. Clip a few bolts on the arete then trend back right to a fixed pin marking the bottom of the knife blade crack. Put in your choice of small pro with many options and do the slab boulder problem to the two bolt anchor.

Location 

Left of the face split by Blue Collar Crack is a dihedral system that is the start of the climb. You can leave the top anchor and walk up about 20 feet (roped) to a big ledge system and walk off. This ledge system also leads to the anchors at the top of the Redneck slab if you wanted to TR that or descend that way. Please also see the beta photo for the Lizard Head wall - its #7

Protection 

standard Wasatch rack with a few long runners and three bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A 70 meter rope lowers you back to the starting belay station.


Photos of King Lizard Slideshow Add Photo
King Lizard
King Lizard
Alternate finish to King Lizard.  Use long to extra long runners everywhere to mitigate the inevitable rope drag.  This should include more climbing with gear.
Alternate finish to King Lizard. Use long to extr...

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By zoso
Sep 2, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Pretty fun route w/fun moves. Well protected. Worth doing if in the area fer shure.