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King Dinosaur
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King Dinosaur 
King is Dead, The 

King Dinosaur 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,040
Submitted By: Sean Denny on Mar 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: King Dino starts in the center of the face and hea...

Description 

Two move wonder. The first is the crux.
Start on two slots in the middle of the face, one slightly higher than the other. Make a HARD move up to a sharp hold and toss to the top.
I heard that the bottom hold used to be better than the top, if that's the case, then the bottom hold has broken significantly.
I'm using the difficulty grade in the book. I've climbed other v7s and this felt harder, but I'd like a second opinion.


Location 

If you found the boulder, you found the problem.


Protection 

two pads and a spot are nice, but not necessary.



Photos of King Dinosaur Slideshow Add Photo
Sticking the first move, only one more left!
Sticking the first move, only one more left!
Comments on King Dinosaur Add Comment
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By Rob Riggleman
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 8, 2010

I can't really add too much of a second opinion other than to say it's freakin' hard. On other climbs in the 7 range here and at the 'yard I can usually make at least a competent effort, but I can't even find a position to get my feet off the ground on this thing. Do you use the foothold that's way out to the left and try to throw, or am I completely botching the beta?

By Sean Denny
From: Portland
Mar 9, 2010

Yeah, I use a foothold out left. I seem to recall hiking my right foot up there, establishing, and throwing.
Truth be told, I think that if you can get on the wall and comfortably hold that starting position, you can do the problem.
This thing is bloody hard to be sure. I'm just reluctant to boost the grade due to my lack of experience with the V8+ range.
My only gauge is that it took me a few weeks of attempts (probably around 100) and some serious psyche, whereas other 7s (smooth criminal, gangster hippy, call me right, etc) took me at most a week or two of work.

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Feb 21, 2011

It's hard fer an old git like me to remember exactly but I do think the first hold is smaller than it was but I always thought it was very hard for it's grade anyway. Wills graded it, and he's got very strong and also very small fingers. The way he used to hike the thing it was hard for me to uprate it but it's always felt WAY harder than any other V7 that I ever did. Desperate.

By Bob Banks
Mar 11, 2011

That little piece broke off the pocket 10 years ago...didn't affect the difficulty. I've seen [little] guys hike it and say no way was it V7. I always thought the rating was fine. Also Sean, this may have felt harder than those 3 problems because none of them are V7.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 13, 2011

I'm thinking of starting a support group for people who are working this problem and have big fingers. I went for it today on this problem, and busted a tip because I couldn't cram my damn sausage fingers in to the slot.

Session ruined.

Still, rad problem.

By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Mar 1, 2012
rating: V7 7A+

I got on this for the first time today and sent it pretty quick. It is really my style of problem though. I don't really know if it is harder than V7, I have yet to work on anything V8 so not really sure what the grade feels like. Defiantly not 8+ or 9 though.

My beta was a right foot on the good foot hold out left and just do a twisting throw up to the decent crimp. A key was to trust your left fingers not blowing out of the shallow pocket.

I loved it others with me hated it.

By Sean Denny
From: Portland
Jan 13, 2013

Re-climbed this on Wednesday. Fantastic piece of rock. You guys are all right. V7 it is.

Any word on the sit? It looks hard, and I seem to recall some dude telling me years ago that it went at V10.