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King Country and Northern Taranaki

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Airstrip, The 
Castle Craig - Te Anga  
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King Country and Northern Taranaki  

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Location: -38.4149, 175.0424 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Cameron Fraser, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Corona on Nov 24, 2012
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Rolling hills and Limestone


The King Country region of northern Taranaki and the southern Waikato is known for its lush vegetation, high rainfall, and famous limestone caves. The abundant rainfall makes for wildly featured climbing on isolated outcrops of limestone. Fall is the prime season for low altitude cragging, with crisp temperatures and little precipitation. Winters are rainy and cold temperatures cause water to condense on even the steepest rock. Springs are wet, as well, although condensation is rare at sheltered crags. Several crags on private farms are closed for lambing in the late winter and spring. Shady crags are most popular in the summer due to the heat and humidity.

Getting There 

The limestone climbing of the King Country is centered around Waitomo Caves, one hour south of Hamilton on state highway 3. Not far from Wharepapa South area.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.5 miles from here

40 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for King Country and Northern Taranaki:
Prokarstination   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Mangaokewa : The Grandstands
Browse More Classics in King Country and Northern Taranaki

Featured Route For King Country and Northern Taranaki
Stalactites everywhere!

Angry American 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Oceania : New Zealand : ... : Wall of Teeth
An area classic. Climb a sheet of intertwined stalactites. A unique climb thats very different from your typical pocket pulling sport route. Get in there and don't be afraid to jam your whole leg between some stalactites! Highly recommended even if below your grade....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of King Country and Northern Taranaki Slideshow Add Photo
The Leaning Tower, Pakeho
The Leaning Tower, Pakeho
Some of the cliffs at Mangaokewa scenic reserve
Some of the cliffs at Mangaokewa scenic reserve
Hang dogging a roof at Mangaokewa
Hang dogging a roof at Mangaokewa
Bouldering on limestone
Bouldering on limestone

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