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King Cobra 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: K. Buckner, J. Padden, 24-OCT-1965
Page Views: 143
Submitted By: James K Haugen on Jul 22, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: King Cobra is Climb number 14.

Description 

Trad Rating: Hard Severe (Brit System) in 1968 climbing guidebook
Sport rating: F5

Normally only one pitch is done, however there is a second pitch.

Pitch 1: A delightful exercise in bridging and laybacking. Climb the obvious, easy angled groove and corner. Continue over the corner crack, then to a 2-bolt belay. 80ft.
Plenty of unnecessary bolts for protection, placed long after the first ascensionists completed the route.

Pitch 2: Climb the slab and wall above, 50 ft. Unknown anchor status.

P. Hughes on Pitch 1 of King Cobra. <br />Photo Credit: J. Kirby
P. Hughes on Pitch 1 of King Cobra.
Photo Credit: J. Kirby


Location 

Refer to www.hongkongclimbing.com for route details and topo.


Protection 

This route can be climbed using only bolts, or climbed using trad protection.

1 set of cams to 2.5", 1-2 sets of nuts will protect the climb to a 2-bolt belay.



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By Brian Boyd
Administrator
Aug 4, 2013

If you are going to climb this on trad gear, you will benefit from having more mid-sized cams than stoppers. Multiple opportunities to place a #3 camalot, and perhaps a little run-out if all you have is a #2.

hongkongclimbing.com (where the route description and topo are taken from) list this as 5.9, but the old guidebook lists the rating as 5.5. So, YMMV.

For sport climbers, you have a choice of anchors to finish on: (1) The obvious anchors just right of the corner, (2) anchors mentioned in the route description, up and left from choice 1, and (3) continue up from option 1 for another 15 feet or so, passing one bolt.