Trad Rating: Hard Severe (Brit System) in 1968 climbing guidebook
Sport rating: F5
Normally only one pitch is done, however there is a second pitch.
Pitch 1: A delightful exercise in bridging and laybacking. Climb the obvious, easy angled groove and corner. Continue over the corner crack, then to a 2-bolt belay. 80ft.
Plenty of unnecessary bolts for protection, placed long after the first ascensionists completed the route.
Pitch 2: Climb the slab and wall above, 50 ft. Unknown anchor status.
| || P. Hughes on Pitch 1 of King Cobra. |
Photo Credit: J. Kirby
Refer to www.hongkongclimbing.com for route details and topo.
This route can be climbed using only bolts, or climbed using trad protection.
1 set of cams to 2.5", 1-2 sets of nuts will protect the climb to a 2-bolt belay.
|By Brian Boyd|
Aug 4, 2013
If you are going to climb this on trad gear, you will benefit from having more mid-sized cams than stoppers. Multiple opportunities to place a #3 camalot, and perhaps a little run-out if all you have is a #2.
hongkongclimbing.com (where the route description and topo are taken from) list this as 5.9, but the old guidebook lists the rating as 5.5. So, YMMV.
For sport climbers, you have a choice of anchors to finish on: (1) The obvious anchors just right of the corner, (2) anchors mentioned in the route description, up and left from choice 1, and (3) continue up from option 1 for another 15 feet or so, passing one bolt.