Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Beacon Hill
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angels Wing 
Blue Cross 
Cliff Hanger 
King Cobra 
Spitting Cobra 

King Cobra 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: K. Buckner, J. Padden, 24-OCT-1965
Page Views: 143
Submitted By: James K Haugen on Jul 22, 2013
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: King Cobra is Climb number 14.


Trad Rating: Hard Severe (Brit System) in 1968 climbing guidebook
Sport rating: F5

Normally only one pitch is done, however there is a second pitch.

Pitch 1: A delightful exercise in bridging and laybacking. Climb the obvious, easy angled groove and corner. Continue over the corner crack, then to a 2-bolt belay. 80ft.
Plenty of unnecessary bolts for protection, placed long after the first ascensionists completed the route.

Pitch 2: Climb the slab and wall above, 50 ft. Unknown anchor status.

P. Hughes on Pitch 1 of King Cobra. <br />Photo Credit: J. Kirby
P. Hughes on Pitch 1 of King Cobra.
Photo Credit: J. Kirby


Refer to www.hongkongclimbing.com for route details and topo.


This route can be climbed using only bolts, or climbed using trad protection.

1 set of cams to 2.5", 1-2 sets of nuts will protect the climb to a 2-bolt belay.

Comments on King Cobra Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Boyd
Aug 4, 2013

If you are going to climb this on trad gear, you will benefit from having more mid-sized cams than stoppers. Multiple opportunities to place a #3 camalot, and perhaps a little run-out if all you have is a #2.

hongkongclimbing.com (where the route description and topo are taken from) list this as 5.9, but the old guidebook lists the rating as 5.5. So, YMMV.

For sport climbers, you have a choice of anchors to finish on: (1) The obvious anchors just right of the corner, (2) anchors mentioned in the route description, up and left from choice 1, and (3) continue up from option 1 for another 15 feet or so, passing one bolt.