Kindness 5.12
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12+ [details] |
| FA: | Joshua Janes. |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Jul 4, 2009 |
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Josh Janes working below the roof.
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Description One of the last lines to go down on the Right Wall, Kindness is a beautiful pitch of trad climbing. This route tackles some seriously intimidating terrain and is super fun! Begin as for No Feelings which moves up fractured rock skirting well to the left of the massive, lower roof. Where No Feelings continues moving way left to a system that avoids the huge upper roof, Kindness heads directly up to it via a nice thin-hands crack. Once at the roof, undercling right to a jug and take a few breaths before pulling the roof via imaginary tips and some wonderfully strange moves that will bring a smile to your face. If all goes well, you'll find yourself established in the beautiful upper corner no worse for wear. Continue upwards with 5.12 liebacking and stemming to a stance at a hand jam and a horizontal that is just a little too steep for comfort. Step left here (do not continue straight up!) into an exposed, overhanging finger crack that culminates with a final mantle onto the top of the column.
Location Begin at fractured rock below the two huge roofs - one at 50', the other at 75'.
Protection A double set from tips to 2", wires, long slings and a 70m rope.
The head smear.
| Josh getting established in the stembox after the ...
| a picture of Mike on Kindness with Parting Gift to...
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By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Jul 5, 2009
| Nice work Josh. This looks like a rad line. |
By JJ Schlick Administrator From: Flagstaff, AZ Jul 14, 2009
| No doubt- Josh put this thing to rest in three attempts, in one sweltering day! Fucking impressive! |
By Michael Sokoloff From: Spokane, WA Dec 1, 2009 rating: 5.13a
| Another thanks to Josh for doing the FA of this awesome route! Intense and difficult sequence getting over the roof. Remains sustained and hard. Protection is good throughout. One of the best sequences at the Waterfall. Wish the first half of the route was a bit harder and of similar quality as the top half. Difficult route to rate. I'll go with the 13a Josh gave it for now until it sees more ascents/opinions. |
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