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The Right Wall
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Kindness 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Joshua Janes.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,866
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jul 4, 2009
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Josh Janes working below the roof.

Description 

One of the last lines to go down on the Right Wall, Kindness is a beautiful pitch of trad climbing. This route tackles some seriously intimidating terrain and is super fun!

Begin as for No Feelings which moves up fractured rock skirting well to the left of the massive, lower roof. Where No Feelings continues moving way left to a system that avoids the huge upper roof, Kindness heads directly up to it via a nice thin-hands crack.

Once at the roof, undercling right to a jug and take a few breaths before pulling the roof via imaginary tips and some wonderfully strange moves that will bring a smile to your face. If all goes well, you'll find yourself established in the beautiful upper corner no worse for wear. Continue upwards with 5.12 liebacking and stemming to a stance at a hand jam and a horizontal that is just a little too steep for comfort. Step left here (do not continue straight up!) into an exposed, overhanging finger crack that culminates with a final mantle onto the top of the column.


Location 

Begin at fractured rock below the two huge roofs - one at 50', the other at 75'.


Protection 

A double set from tips to 2", wires, long slings and a 70m rope.



Photos of Kindness Slideshow Add Photo
Right before the rest
Right before the rest
The head smear.
The head smear.
a picture of Mike on Kindness with Parting Gift to the right starting at the first overhang then going up the obvious dihedral.  <br /> <br />Belaying Mike when he initially worked it, I was pretty sure he'd get it once he sussed out the moves
a picture of Mike on Kindness with Parting Gift to...
Josh getting established in the stembox after the roof.
Josh getting established in the stembox after the ...
Onsight attempt
Onsight attempt
Comments on Kindness Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 5, 2009

Nice work Josh. This looks like a rad line.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 14, 2009

No doubt- Josh put this thing to rest in three attempts, in one sweltering day! Fucking impressive!

By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Dec 1, 2009
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

Another thanks to Josh for doing the FA of this awesome route!

Intense and difficult sequence getting over the roof. Remains sustained and hard. Protection is good throughout.

One of the best sequences at the Waterfall. Wish the first half of the route was a bit harder and of similar quality as the top half.

Difficult route to rate. I'll go with the 13a Josh gave it for now until it sees more ascents/opinions.

By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 16, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b

After the 5.9 start things get a little crazy. Karate kick, body smear, and slap your way over the roof. The stemming above takes some real try hard! If you make it to the hand-pod/jug clean, then it's going to the top! Gear is all bomber but small and strenuous to place over the roof.
Might take a 5.13 effort to onsight this thing, but the roof moves are doable if you get a chance to work out your own beta. For me the moves felt harder then The Terminator 5.12c

By Josh Janes
Oct 21, 2013

Thanks for getting on it and posting up Robbie!

By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 25, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b

Right on Josh! Thanks for doing the FA on this awesome line.