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 ADVANCED
Poland Hill
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ape Walk T 
Bear Voo, The T 
Bistro, The 
Boulder Hop T 
Boulder Hopper T 
Clean and Jerk T 
Cool Jet T,TR 
Cumulus 
Estrogen Patch Remover T 
Fantasia T 
Green With Envy T 
Kim T 
Little Old Crack aka Boulder Hop T 
Orbital Ridge T,TR 
Overload T 
Petit Crapon T 
Piece of Dirt S 
Remote Control T 
Skull T 
Soul of a Poet 
Southwest Friction S 
Stem Christie T 
Sugar Crack T 
Sweet Finish T 
Tanfasia T 
Toadstool 
Underachiever  T 
Unsorted Routes:

Kim 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,837
Submitted By: Darin Lang on Jul 30, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (102)
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Climbing Kim just after a hail storm.
Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a beautiful and a well-deserved Vedauwoo classic, and also an excellent beginner lead. Kim is the right-angling crack on the Rat Brain clearly visible on the approach. Approach the Rat Brain as described on the main page and on the Piece of Dirt route description. Continue up past Piece of Dirt to the left side of the semicircular/circular flake.

This climb eats about any gear and provides perfect jams for hands and feet all the way up to the now-bomber two-bolt anchor. There may be one of the old spinner 1/4 inchers left up there as well, which used to make for an uncomfortable rap down. Four stars.


Protection 

A set of hexes and larger sized stoppers will get you up in style. If you insist on technology, a standard rack with nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot will also work.



Photos of Kim Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
Kim 5.4, great finger crack and good first lead.  Takes medium nuts and small cams.
BETA PHOTO: Kim 5.4, great finger crack and good first lead. ...
Cruising up the delightful but too-short Kim.
Cruising up the delightful but too-short Kim.
Dave enjoying the 5.6 known as Kim.
Dave enjoying the 5.6 known as Kim.
Amy Ferrin climbs Kim while Clint Locks belays.  Photo: Mike Morley.
Amy Ferrin climbs Kim while Clint Locks belays. P...
Climber on the upper part of Kim.
Climber on the upper part of Kim.
Photo by Mark Howell on September 9, 2002.
Photo by Mark Howell on September 9, 2002.
Aaron Shupp.
Aaron Shupp.
Rap anchors at the top of Rat Brain.
Rap anchors at the top of Rat Brain.
Tom Stockton finishing up Kim.
Tom Stockton finishing up Kim.
Stef contemplating her first trad lead, which turned out great!
Stef contemplating her first trad lead, which turn...
Climbers on Kim on an amazing day.
Climbers on Kim on an amazing day.
Taken by my husband on a windy day near the crux.
Taken by my husband on a windy day near the crux.
Rob Davies discovers that Kim seems harder than advertised.
Rob Davies discovers that Kim seems harder than ad...
Gary topping out on Kim.
Gary topping out on Kim.
The rap off Kim and many routes on top of this blob.
BETA PHOTO: The rap off Kim and many routes on top of this blo...
Comments on Kim Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 5, 2013
By Scott Hansen
From: Westminster, CO
Jul 31, 2001

My climbing partner speakth the truth. This route is great! The start is a bit slabby until you reach the left to right leaning crack. She's a short outing but well worth the visit.

By Adam Holmes
Mar 18, 2002

Kim is a fun crack but it is super short. Seems like all the pictures of it make it look like a perfect hand/finger crack that goes on forever. Ed's Crack is ten times better than this thing.

By Darin Lang
Mar 18, 2002

The "perfect" part of Ed's is about the same length. Ed's is better (although not ten times better) only because you combine the perfect (if short) hand crack with an OW start, airy step across, insecure slab moves to the crack, and a thrutching OW bulge to finish. As a "pure" crack climb, Kim is better.

By Hill
May 8, 2002

For me and my [average] sized hands, this seemed more like a finger crack. I got my hands in below and above the 15 feet of steep climbing, but in the crux a #1 camalot won't go in. Stoppers or TCUs will be what you want for pro. The thin crack makes it tough to practice a real foot jam too. In my opinion, Kim's is not the best crack for trying to teach someone to climb a crack

By Mike Epke
From: Denver, CO
Aug 21, 2002

I agree that with average or slightly bigger than average sized hands, this is definitely a finger crack. Great climb for my first trip to Vedauwoo, only wish it was a longer route just like everyone.Biggest pro I placed was a .75 camalot.

By Angela Arp
From: Omaha Ne
Aug 28, 2002

Wonderful first Vedauwoo trad lead. . . If you have small to mediium size hands it is the perfect size! Gets fingery at the top, but the crack seems just deep enough!

By Tyson S Arp
Aug 28, 2002

And with big, fat fingers its even more exciting!!!

By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Sep 17, 2002

The climber in the photo I posted is Roger Wilkerson. Nice fall colors!

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Aug 16, 2003
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I still don't enjoy this thing, so its all the better that it seems to be the only reason people come out to Poland Hill. For setting up top ropes for other harder climbs, Southwest Friction is faster and easier. I just can't seem to convince myself that 35 feet of rattly fingers can be all that fun compared to about 60 feet of good hands (and occasional offwidth feet) on Edward's. Has anyone here tried Skull? Anyone?

By Michael Kullman
Sep 3, 2003

Several people recommended this route to us - at best I thought it was a fun warm up, but a classic? No way, not even close to the same league as Edward's Crack. I thought Sugar Crack, Petit Crapon, and Fantasia were all much nicer routes.

Wouldn't hike out to Poland Hill just to climb this one route (which rules it out as a classic in my book).

By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Sep 3, 2003

This can only be considered a classic if you're a boulderer! The route is only 30' long and for the length of the approach and the size of the normal crowds waiting in line makes it only worth 1 star in my book.

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jan 22, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Don't bringing anything bigger than .75 camalot (as said above) unless you want to build an anchor in lieu of the big fat sexy bolts at the top of Southwest Friction. And if you must toprope at this crag, try Fantasia, Sugar Crack, or Skull. They're much more worth your time than this.

By Brian Weinstein
Jan 23, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

this is an exciting little seam with a nice approach. i think it fairly deserves two stars. if you're just cruising the area and are interested in the full experience of the climb, it's worth it. a nice warm-up to other climbs in the area as well.

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 18, 2005

The real climbing only last about 20 ft so imho would not be worth the hike out there if that is your only objective. However, if you have the place to yourselves, as we did today, it is fun to take laps on it and practice different crack technics, i.e. both feet in crack, one foot in, layback version, hand jams version, etc. 4-5 small to medium pieces are plenty to get you up safely.

By Stefanie Van Wychen
From: Golden, CO
Jul 25, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I have to give this one two stars because it was my first lead. If anyone is looking for something short and easy to do a trad lead on, Kim is the one. My hands are average for a girl and I got some great hand jams in the beginning and solid fingers at the top, just keep your right foot on the crystals and it's a cruise.

By Sara
From: Conifer, CO
Oct 9, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Great and really fun route...but too short. This was really easy but so much fun with the angle of the crack not being straight up.

By Danny
Oct 10, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

For aesthetics, this line is hard to beat, second to fantasia for the most striking line at the formation IMHO. It is also great first lead b/c it is short and forgiving.

By Sara
From: Conifer, CO
Oct 18, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A beautiful and fun crack climb...but , oh so short.

By Brian Story
Nov 14, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a good first 5.6 lead and may feel soft compared to the wider 5.6 climbs at Vedauwoo. I agree that the climb is pretty short. Be sure to check out the 5.6 handcrack around the corner.

By Chris Chaney
From: Arvada, Colorado
Jun 20, 2010

I agree that the climb is short and somewhat of a novelty climb, but that aside, it's in an amazing setting, with a commanding position. The line itself is striking from a distance, and it takes good gear. I call it a classic for aesthetic reasons alone. For a new leader, or someone that is a 5.6-5.7 leader this would be a nice tick, just because you can sew it up and enjoy an amazing climb at the same time.

We lucked out and there weren't really any crowds, though we did end up sharing the route with three different parties at different times.

By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 15, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

5.6 is a typically Vedauwoo grade. This would get VS 5a in the UK. Great little climb.

By Eben Daggett
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 5, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This climb really covers a large range of sizes (like a lot of cracks at Vedauwoo, it seems). I have averaged sized hands and found most of it to be fingers to loose fingers, some of it to be hands, and loose hands towards the top. Super clean route. Way too much fun to lead but way too short. This was my first trip up this way, and after starting off with a few 5.4s and 5.5s (Foolishness, Boulder Hop) that kicked my butt, the 5.6 rating of Kim had me worried. I found this climb to be much easier/straightforward than most of those lower rated climbs. Have no fear, this one is no pain and all fun!