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Kim Jung Il 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Bayard Russell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 947
Submitted By: bayard russell jr on Aug 14, 2008
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Description 

The pitch free climbs an abandoned Joe Cote aid route; two of its first three bolts are replaced 1/4"-ers. There was some rusty, light duty bail gear on the third bolt when I found it. Joe said the initial seam was the hardest aid climbing he had ever done; he was kicking out pins with his knees as he tried to climb past them. Above the third bolt its all new terrain. The pitch has a variety of climbing from techy Cathedral footwork, a couple of dynamic moves, some wild undercling traversing, a bit of finger crack climbing, and some unexpected sequences.


Location 

Kim Jung Il is located on the far right side of the four foot wide traverse ledge that begins at Nomad Crack on the Barber Wall and provides access to Grim Reaper, Homicidal Maniac and others. It is between Homicidal Maniac and Asylum. Look for an awkwardly low bolt where the ledge flattens out, this is a replaced 1/4"-er. Follow bolts and a seam to the left side of an overlap. Traverse right below the overlap, ino a right facing corner and up to a ledge with two bolt rappel anchor.


Protection 

There are six bolts plus an anchor with rings. You will also need an assortment of small gear including some RP style small nuts, although as of now a fixed wire protects one of the cruxes. Nothing bigger than .75 Camalot, and maybe a couple of extra tip and finger size pieces.



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