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 ADVANCED
Left End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete, The T 
Cowboy's From Hell S 
Daddy's Day Out T 
Flake Route T 
Flakes and Dykes S 
Killing Time in the Crystal City T 
Molly's Crack T 
Shaman Moves T 
Thanks to the Nubbins S 

Killing Time in the Crystal City 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 301
Submitted By: EDGE on Jul 30, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Opening moves.

Description 

The face between "Cowboys From Hell" and "Daddy's Day Out." Begin immediately left of a beech tree, and climb straight up, then slightly left past a huge natural thread and a crystal filled pocket that gives the route it's name. Really fun moves with a couple distinct mini cruxes.

Location 

Just left of Daddy's Day Out is a line of pockets and intermittent dike steps. The route is about 10' to the right of Cowboys From Hell.

Protection 

Perfect protection just where you need it with Tricams to size 2 and a natural thread.


Photos of Killing Time in the Crystal City Slideshow Add Photo
The crystal pocket for which the route was named.  It's too small to be collectable, so please leave it alone.
BETA PHOTO: The crystal pocket for which the route was named. ...
Running laps after the lead.
Running laps after the lead.
Joshua Corbett follows the route.
Joshua Corbett follows the route.
Another fun Mt Molly rounded top-out.
Another fun Mt Molly rounded top-out.
Approaching the thread.
Approaching the thread.
The natural thread.  You could hang 200+ poseurs off of this, myself included.
BETA PHOTO: The natural thread. You could hang 200+ poseurs o...

Comments on Killing Time in the Crystal City Add Comment
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By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 30, 2011

I didn't see this route listed, although it's entirely possible that it has been done previously. Anyway, I named it after a song from Hot Tuna, which if you haven't listened to their album "Double Dose" stoned, well, you probably should. Killing Time in the Crystal City
By jimmi jazz
From: new durham nh
Aug 1, 2011

If I'm right you're the first to climb it. nice job! glad to see new routes getting put up.
By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 2, 2011

I thought so, but it's proximity to Cowboys From Hell made me wonder. Assuming that Cowboys was bolted on rappel, it would have been easy to spy this line of pockets and the big thread as a route. I used a small stick to clear off some loose lichen on key holds, then wore through an already holey sock drying a few more holds prior to the send (it had rained hard the night before.) I also have my eye on another line that looks like it will go at hard 10, but we ran out of time.

And thanks, Jim, for all of your (and others) hard work establishing routes in the area!
By chinos
Aug 2, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Hey Loran, the route has been climbed but the name kicks ass! i grew up listening to my dads hot tuna vinyls. i climbed the route awhile back and assumed that someone had climbed it before me to. The route is really cool and that thread is one of a kind for the area! Keep doing more lines. Hope to climb with you guys soon...
By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 3, 2011

I changed the FA info to reflect that it had been done previously, but kept the name for the time being for documentation purposes. If anyone else wants to claim the FA, then I will be happy to make any necessary changes.