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Climb the crack running up and slightly left, just to the right of Deck Chairs on the Titanic. This is a good primer for hand jamming technique.
Hexes, stoppers. For TR, a #7 stopper, and some medium length slings will set you right.
Getting some gear in before it gets interesting. ...
Out for a little solo climb.
BETA PHOTO: Killian's Dead showing with top rope, fun short li...
|Comments on Killian's Dead
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jun 9, 2001
Nice little climb to do with friends that haven't climbed a lot, because you can try to crank the 3ft roof on a top rope...and your new partners get used to belaying you.
|By Matt Chan|
From: Denver, CO
Apr 8, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
I thought Killian's Dead was a lot of fun. 5.6 lead that takes good gear the whole way. There is a 6 foot section of OW that is difficult to protect, but before and after there is pro. Two ring anchor for lowering and setting TR.
|By Gary Schmidt|
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 9, 2005
A nice trad route but one I wouldn't recommend as a "first" 5.6 lead. Would make a nice top rope though for those who wish to practice their hand jams and get a feel for what off-widths arel like.
|By Buff Johnson|
Jan 19, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
Fun little trad line. Taking the roof straight through instead of working the jugfest right-side offers more of a .9 (I really like this harder variant - really good crack moves); the crux .6 crack move is really committing for a lead, just trust the feet.
|By Ben Helgeson|
Jan 26, 2008
Cool to lead with trad gear, do it and then do the big dihedral....the OW provides good cam practice, and the new anchors up top make it really convenient.
Aug 21, 2011
Good exposure halfway up for such a short climb. Takes mid-sized cams very well, two bolt anchor. Extend the first piece of gear placed to minimize rope drag.
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 5, 2011
Great climb for the grade. Solid gear all the way up.
From: Ogden, UT
May 21, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
A little stiff for a 5.6. This has a small bulge, and it is tough to protect in the offwidth section. 5.7 in my opinion! 5.7- if it exists? It's definitely as tough as John Adam's Apple (which is to the right of this route)....
|By Kurtis Anderson|
Nov 7, 2013
Great 5.6 trad climb! I would agree it's a stiff 5.6; Iraqi Road is much easier for similar rating. Recommend placing the first pro (size 1 Camalot works wonders) just north of the roof, agreeing with tom303, to avoid rope drag.