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Killers Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Killer aka Mark Tebaldi and Mark Sprague, 1999
Page Views: 807
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 23, 2008

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Killers Crack going up the left facing corner. Ph...

Description 

Start by pulling over a bulge on a super thin crack then in to a much better size finger crack... This widens to thin hands and protects well... I ended up going around the corner to the left and in to some interesting positions looking for the anchor before down climbing and figuring it out... once you are lookin around the corner to the left make a strenuous hand traverse right and fish in a solid piece... Then head straight up on crimps till you can clip the anchor...

I found this route to climb more like 5.10 but i guess thats what 5.9+ is getting at anyway, right...


Location 

between the left and right sides of the crag is a gaping wide chimney... This route climbs cracks to the right of the chimney and left of the first bolted route to the right of the chimney (sorry if that description hurt your brain)...


Protection 

Trad gear to 2 bolt anchor... i found nuts and small cams to work well...



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 1, 2012
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Dec 3, 2011

This sounds like you may have done my route Back Crack, Lee, though I don't remember if I ever put the intended anchor in. Killer's Crack is quite a bit shorter and goes up a little corner and climbs on a very obviously loose flake (at least once you have put gear behind it and climbed up, lol). Killer's is just left of Cold Shoulder, at the mouth of the chimney and Back Crack starts from inside the chimney a little.

If belaying for either of these routes, be aware that there is a lot of loose rock and fallen trees above that might come flying down the chimney, so make sure you can get out of the way.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 3, 2011

interesting... i couldnt tell where Ward was describing Back Crack to be in the book... Thats good information... i think we should do a field trip with all the obscurists and or choss lovers... we could walk the crags and point out our "Jems" and explore the mystery lines haha...

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Dec 3, 2011

It was a last minute addition when we were going over the draft and I remembered the route. He probably threw something in quickly without being able to go back up and check it.

Some day you have to come out to Green's or Owls with us if you want to see some real gems. With all your trad climbing you would eat it up. You just have to bring your muses so we can get some good pictures of people actually climbing the routes.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 4, 2011

i really should get out there sometime... shoot some photos... climb some routes... see what you crazy kids have been up to...

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jan 17, 2012

This spring I'd like to go up 'Back Crack' (if it's the crack with some brown moss below it where it curves up left to the corner) and after it stops in the corner I'm going left and up through the large ceiling to climb then the outside edge to the top. Then who knows maybe I'll force my way up the large inclining left wall of 'Giant Man'. It will be an aid route that like everything else in Rumney will have some radical features to climb later freely on.
In 1980 I was climbing the Basalt chimney free solo and a hold broke. I fell or fast slid down 30ft and was not injured. Close call and a very not recommended chimney dike to climb to nowhere.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 17, 2012

I always thought there would be a good sport route (or two) where you are talking about, Bradley. I am just a little wary, after seeing how many clueless people sit below Jolt, of attracting lots of people to hang out in that chimney unless the debris above are cleared out. Also, there is a very cool steep buttress high above (where Ward erroneously drew in The Lean Mean in the guide), that you have probably also seen, that looks like it has a crack running up to a roof that will make a great free route(maybe aid first) I had thought to do it as a two pitch route with a few bolts in the chimney approach pitch to avoid just the spill you took. When I checked out the upper wall running from the buttress over to Ale-8-one in the past, I found it to be disappointingly short for routes, with maybe one steep short one worth doing just left of Ale-8.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 18, 2012

ive had my eye on the crack in the chimney that leads to the roof... looks sweet...

By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Apr 11, 2012

Just for a little clarification (there seems to be some topo issues with this sections of the guidebook...) is this the Killers Crack??

Killers Crack going up the left facing corner at the right side of the photo
Killers Crack going up the left facing corner at the right side of the photo

By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Apr 11, 2012

Obscurists and choss lovers... Lol

PS: I'd love to do a photo shoot at Owl's Head. I lived in Warren for a few years and could't figure out why more people did not frequent the ledge. My best bet was location. If it was located in North Conway next to Humphrey or something, I think it would compete with Whitehorse popularity wise.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 11, 2012

Yes, it looks like it. Seeing the picture, now Lee's description makes more sense to me. That block at the top of the corner is kind of sketchy, though it looks all right from below, so take care if you get on it.

The Owl's Cliff I was refering to above is the one off Bear Notch Rd.
www.mountainproject.com/v/owls-cliff/106752126 If you haven't been there yet, Ryan, I bet you would like it too.

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jun 1, 2012

The high up chimney crack is not a chimney and part of it has loose flakes on both sides of the crack. Climbing it you can have a person on the ground to monitor ground safety. It is a very loose rock climb but doable.