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The Bear
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bear Arete, The 
Bear Crack, The 
Bear Cub Crack 
Bear Fingers 
Bear's Choice 
Beast of Burden 
Beast, The 
Black Hole Sun 
Body Snatcher 
Jason and the Argonauts 
Jekyll and Hyde 
Just Bearly 
Kidnapped 
Kill Uncle 
Kodiak 
Lower Arete 
Mark's Moderate 
Napa Valley Party Service 
Old And In The Way 
Polar Bear Spire 
Rampage 
Silverado Squatters 
Smash n Grab 
Stone Free 
Swallow My Pride 
Theodore Roosevelt 
Treasure Island 
Uncle Tom 
Ursa Major 
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack 
Wayne's World 
Unsorted Routes:

Kill Uncle 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jordy Morgan
Page Views: 581
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Apr 30, 2004
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Description 

Kill Uncle is located just left of the center arete problem on the Bear. You can start by traversing left over a bush towards the first bolt for a 12b variation. It involves pumpy pulls with few feet until you meet the normal route.

The normal route involves a traverse to the second bolt from the arete. Use of underclings and big moves get you past the next two bolts, then the climbing eases as you finish up at the anchors.


Protection 

4 bolts to hangers.To top-rope, drop your rope from the arete's anchors and clip a directional or two because of the route's constant overhang.



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By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
Nov 17, 2007

Staying right above the third bolt, linking to the Arete anchors, makes this a real classic, adds another crux move, and avoids the big hueco pod that breaks up the left finish.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Nov 15, 2009

I am not sure what to call the grade on this route. If starting in the chimney and traversing in, than I think this would get 12a for the crux sequence. However, the obvious and natural line (which we did) started directly below and a bit left of the bolt and followed the seam up and right to the pinch at the 1st bolt. Done this way, I thought the route was somewhere in the vicinity of 12c or d. I'm not comfortable calling it 12d yet because I was pretty burned by the time I got on it, but I think it is safe to say that this is solidly harder than 12b. I also think that a stick clip is wise because the fall zone is not on level ground. Also, if you do the chimney start, I think putting a 2 foot draw on the first bolt is wise and it still keeps the leader off the deck if you blow the second clip.

I am interested in what you think Mr. Dodrill.
Best.

By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
Dec 1, 2009

I agee. The direct, Kill Uncle start has been more of a Kill Joy to me and feels wicked hard on bad holds/no feet. I stick clip the first bolt, climb the arete a few moves and traverse left under the big bulge toward the second bolt. Its deluxe to pre-hang the third draw and clip it from the undercling with better feet than higher up.

By Caliza
Mar 17, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

I did what the guidebook calls Uncle Tom, starting on the arete and traversing in left at the second bolt. I've don the route twice exiting two different ways, going slightly left at the 3rd bolt and exiting directly up at third bolt with the sharp undercling. I think the left exit, which is the easiest natural exit is 11c, whereas the direct exit falls somewhere between 11d and 12a. The direct start in the seem tho feels like wickedly very hard 12b if not just 12c. The start is harder than any move on Jason.

By Renaud
From: San Mateo, CA
Apr 15, 2013

I worked the direct start yesterday and got it only after a good number of attempts. Very thin and bouldery!
Definitely stick clip that first bolt unless you're super confident at the grade or really want to break your ankle :)
I would also suggest 12c for the direct start (might be a little easier if you're 6ft or taller).
If such a move was found in the middle of the route instead of the start, it would probably be considered even harder.

I also agree with Dodrill that pre-hanging the 3rd draw makes a big difference. I wasted quite a bit of energy trying to clip this bolt on my first attempt. It was much easier on the 2nd attempt with the draw in place.

By Vlad S
May 24, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

The direct start is definitely the more obvious way to climb this route. However, it has some of the most tenuous moves on the whole cliff. 12c might be appropriate, although I must have tried it more then 5 times and was pretty tired when I finally climbed though. Glad I didn't deck while clipping the 1st bolt - stick clip is not a bad idea. If you climb the arete below the 1st bolt you are skipping this crux and doing the 12a version.

By Caliza
Aug 8, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Just did the direct start two days ago, the first few tries on it felt impossible, but on the send go it didn't feel that bad at all. There is some key beta to the direct start that if you don't figure it out, will make it feel wicked hard. With this beta I think it's 12b, an eliminate finish up top could make it 12c cutting out the good holds left and right at the last bolt, going direct with the sharp right undercling and a left hand deadpoint to a sloper. I really enjoyed this climb!