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Sleeping Princess Area (FTGU Centre)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Steps 
Kids and Old Guys 
Off The Grid 
Pig Pen 
Puzzle, The 
Sleeping Princess 
Smart Grid 

Kids and Old Guys 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mike Warn c. 2006
Page Views: 205
Submitted By: Dru on Mar 24, 2011
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Description 

This is the (currently very dirty) flake system with two bolts that runs up to the right of the scrambling approach to Pig Pen and sleeping Princess. Climb the curving flake crack and where it pinches out step left and jam up to the ledge below Sleeping Princess.


Location 

quite obvious low down as you approach the Great Expectations area.


Protection 

Two bolts plus maybe a cam or wire



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By MikeW
Jun 1, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This has been cleaned up in big way. It's seeing a lot of traffic and it has surprised a few people with its technical crux in the middle.

By Mr. K
Aug 27, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

"Not very entertaining" is what a friend of mine said after climbing up this awkward, manky route. It may look tempting from the ground, but don't bother wasting your time on it. Do yourself a favour and take the hand line on the left to the ledge and cracks above. I would also recommend a name change. I've seen a kid trying to climb this thing and she hated every moment of it. She was screaming so loud they probably heard her on the golf course. I imagine the massive wedgie the harness was giving her didn't help, but that's beside the point. Definitely not a good one for the kiddies.