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Main Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Kid Fears Direct Start S 
Afternoon Delight T,S 
Balance Climb 7 T 
Balance Climb 1 T,TR 
Balance Climb 2 T 
Balance Climb 3 T,TR 
Balance Climb 4 T 
Balance Climb 5 T,TR 
Balance Climb 6 T,TR 
Balance Climb 8 T,TR 
Balance Climb 9 T 
Cavemen Eat Quiche T 
Dihedral T 
Edges to Ledges T 
Fat Bitches in the Sky T 
Gather No Moss T 
Kid Fears T 
Latest Edition T 
Limited Edition T 
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds T 
New Standards S 
Obscured By Clouds S,TR 
Overhang Approach T 
Slip and Slide T 
Special Edition T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Stannard's Crack T 
Three Cam Party T 
Two Man Party Blue S 
Two Man Party Green S 
Two Man Party Orange T,S,TR 
Two Man Party Red T,S,TR 
Two Man Party White S 
Two-Man Party Yellow S 
Unsorted Routes:

Kid Fears 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Angier Wills, Jim Dowdy, ~1988
Page Views: 857
Submitted By: Stephen Felker on Apr 22, 2012  with updates from angier wills

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Climb to the flake ledge. Step up and right past two bolts to a rightward rising seam. Traverse right along the seam to the third bolt. Go straight up and then trend left to the bolted anchor.

Location 

Shares the start and anchors with Afternoon Delight. The two climbs diverge off of the flake ledge, AD to the left and KF to the right.

Protection 

Three bolts and maybe a couple of marginal placements...


Comments on Kid Fears Add Comment
Show which comments
By Stephen Felker
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 6, 2012

At 11c the book is a bit generous. The difficulty is equivalent to that of Afternoon Delight. The run from the last bolt, past the crux, to the anchor is probably 30 feet.

Rock Climbing Photo: Kid Fears (left) from the anchor post ground-up ro...
Kid Fears (left) from the anchor post ground-up roped solo
By Stephen Felker
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 22, 2016

Angier or Jim, what grade did you place on this route originally?
By James Dowdy
Mar 22, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

Angier Wills and I put this route up in the Fall of 1989 - it is beautiful line.
We initially rated it 5.11b/c relative to the difficulties of 'Afternoon Delight.'
However: in hindsight, an 11a R rating is probably more accurate.
[In my estimation, with modern rubber, 'Afternoon Delight' is closer to 5.10d.]

NOTE: there is minimal injury potential to a competent leader - the R rating is simply an indicator of the mental commitment required to make sketchy smears *WAY* above the bolt!

FWIW: I have no idea what the 'Direct Start' refers to...Angier and I always began directly below the first bolt (positioned above the flake).

Have fun!

Jim

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