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Rough Rider Wall
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Kid Charlemagne 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Scott Ayers
Season: Morning Shade Until 2pm
Page Views: 173
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Apr 9, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Steely Dan's 'The Royal Scam' which features 'Kid ...

Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Named after the 1976 Steely Dan song, which was later sampled by Kanye West, 'Kid Charlemagne' starts fierce before easing into a pleasant romp. This route climbs gray, less-than-vertical limestone.

Despite being well-bolted the belayer should pay attention since the start is technical and tricky. I would recommend against belaying from the ground.

Location 

'Kid Charlemagne' starts from the terrace on the left side of The Rough Rider Wall. It is the right most of the two terrace routes.

This route is accessed with a small scramble. There is a bolt for the belayer to use as an anchor. With a 60m rope it is possible to rappel past the belay to the ground.

Protection 

Bolts to leaver biners.


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By 1Eric Rhicard
May 8, 2012

Hard start with a pretty long reach which is harder than the rest of the climb but the climbing above it is very nice.
By Toast with Butter
From: Tempe, AZ
Dec 5, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

definitely a hard 11 start, as with the shorter climb immediately to the left. Sharp, challenging and progressively easier as the route goes up