Kid Charlemagne  5.11

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Type:  Sport, 85 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Scott Ayers Season:  Morning Shade Until 2pm Submitted By:  Hendrixson on Apr 9, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Steely Dan's 'The Royal Scam' which features 'Kid ...

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Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>> Please drive, camp, and climb in a low-impact manner to prevent losing access. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Named after the 1976 Steely Dan song, which was later sampled by Kanye West, 'Kid Charlemagne' starts fierce before easing into a pleasant romp. This route climbs gray, less-than-vertical limestone.

Despite being well-bolted the belayer should pay attention since the start is technical and tricky. I would recommend against belaying from the ground.

Location 

'Kid Charlemagne' starts from the terrace on the left side of The Rough Rider Wall. It is the right most of the two terrace routes.

This route is accessed with a small scramble. There is a bolt for the belayer to use as an anchor. With a 60m rope it is possible to rappel past the belay to the ground.

Protection 

Bolts to leaver biners.