Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Condor Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baconator, The T 
Beltsander, The T 
Condor, The T 
Falcon, The T 
Kibbles and Bolts T 
Nicole Kidman T 
Toxic Avenger T 

Kibbles and Bolts 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jay Goodwin and Captain Noxious, March 1990
Page Views: 327
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: "Kibbles and Bolts". Photo By Blitzo.

Description 

Start 50' down and left from The Falcon, a striking thin crack/corner system. Climb up a ramp to a vertical crack, then cut right to an arete passing four bolts. Bolted anchor/rap on top.

This route is better than it's neighbor to the left due to the arete section up high, but both are fun and easily done as they both share the same anchor.

When in the area make sure to check out some of the fine crack routes nearby- The Falcon and The Condor are both high quality lines and The Wonder Bluffs formation is 10-15 minutes away and has many crack lines to choose from.

Protection 

4 bolts, gear to 1.5", bolted anchor/rap


Comments on Kibbles and Bolts Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 16, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I think this is the same route Vogel calls "Toxic Poodle" no? If so, 2 stars. The arete makes it cool.
By C Miller
Administrator
May 19, 2008

Yes, this route is named "Toxic Poodle" in the 1992 Vogel guide.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Feb 1, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I thought that this was a great route with tons of character, interesting (and sometimes sketchy) moves and an intimidating position. Totally worth doing.
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
From: Cambridge, Massachusetts
Feb 1, 2009

Great climb! Begins with a strenuous layback move above the wedge shaped start boulder and shifts right onto the face and arete. Finishes in the corner just right of the arete.