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Khayyam Spire

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bourbon and Butterflies T 
Conn Route T,S 
God's Own Drunk T 
Meltdown T,TR 
Option C T 
Power of Sole T,TR 
Rubiat Spire T,S 
Silk and Sangria T 
Tequila Sunrise T 
Yellow Wall T 
Unsorted Routes:

Khayyam Spire Rock Climbing 


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Page Views: 5,482
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kevin Fons on Mar 9, 2003
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: Alcohol Wall- Left to Right White - Gods Own Drun...

Description 

Khayyam spire is the prominent Spire with the bright yellow face. It stands out in front of the Spire 2/3 gully. The awsome South Yellow Face has a long bolted route (The Yellow Face), the rest of the spire has some great long crack routes including God's own Drunk, The Wildman Traverse and others.

Getting There 

The spire is the first major spire reached on the Cathedral Spires Trail. Follow the trail until you can move right and up to the base of the spire.

Climbing Season

For the Cathedral Spires area.

Weather station 5.0 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',3],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Khayyam Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Khayyam Spire:
God's Own Drunk   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 320'   
Yellow Wall   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 320'   
Silk and Sangria   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 2 pitches, 240'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Khayyam Spire

Featured Route For Khayyam Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome Yellow Wall in the evening.

Yellow Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  SD : Custer State Park : ... : Khayyam Spire
The first pitch is 5.10 or so and a little runout in places offering both natural gear and 1/4" bolts to clip. The second pitch is the crux and absolutely never runout once you reach the first bolt(which is not hard to get to). Bring some small crack gear for the last bit of the crux pitch and to add to the two 1/4" bolts at the anchor. The last pitch is protected by very good natural gear and one bolt and is 5.10 as well. The route is very sustained and exposed and absolutely stellar climbing. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Khayyam Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Khayyam Spire as seen from near the top of the Spi...
BETA PHOTO: Khayyam Spire as seen from near the top of the Spi...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Upper West Face of Khayyam Tower of the Needle...
The Upper West Face of Khayyam Tower of the Needle...
Rock Climbing Photo: a
a
Rock Climbing Photo: from spire three
from spire three
Rock Climbing Photo: Khayyam in the center
Khayyam in the center
Rock Climbing Photo: From the top of Khayyam looking east.
From the top of Khayyam looking east.
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of a 5.8 Kamp's Route on the south side ...
The start of a 5.8 Kamp's Route on the south side ...
Rock Climbing Photo: A better overview of the wall. 1) G.O.D. 2) Meltdo...
BETA PHOTO: A better overview of the wall. 1) G.O.D. 2) Meltdo...

Comments on Khayyam Spire Add Comment
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By Greg Parker
Administrator
Mar 12, 2003
Nate Renner and I did the Yellow Wall about five years ago and to this day it remains one of my most memorable ascents. The second pitch (12a) is amazing! Some of the sketchy bolts I have been replaced. Definately, definately worth doing.

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