Khayyam Spire Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Alcohol Wall- Left to Right White - Gods Own Drun...
Khayyam spire is the prominent Spire with the bright yellow face. It stands out in front of the Spire 2/3 gully. The awsome South Yellow Face has a long bolted route (The Yellow Face), the rest of the spire has some great long crack routes including God's own Drunk, The Wildman Traverse and others.
The spire is the first major spire reached on the Cathedral Spires Trail. Follow the trail until you can move right and up to the base of the spire.
Climbing Season For the Cathedral Spires area.
Weather station 5.0 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Khayyam Spire
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Khayyam Spire:
Yellow Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 3 pitches, 320'
Featured Route For Khayyam Spire
Yellow Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a SD
: Custer State Park
: ... : Khayyam Spire
The first pitch is 5.10 or so and a little runout in places offering both natural gear and 1/4" bolts to clip. The second pitch is the crux and absolutely never runout once you reach the first bolt(which is not hard to get to). Bring some small crack gear for the last bit of the crux pitch and to add to the two 1/4" bolts at the anchor. The last pitch is protected by very good natural gear and one bolt and is 5.10 as well. The route is very sustained and exposed and absolutely stellar climbing. ...[more] Browse More Classics in SD
BETA PHOTO: Khayyam Spire as seen from near the top of the Spi...
The Upper West Face of Khayyam Tower of the Needle...
From the top of Khayyam looking east.
The start of a 5.8 Kamp's Route on the south side ...
BETA PHOTO: A better overview of the wall. 1) G.O.D. 2) Meltdo...
By Greg Parker
Mar 12, 2003
Nate Renner and I did the Yellow Wall about five years ago and to this day it remains one of my most memorable ascents. The second pitch (12a) is amazing! Some of the sketchy bolts I have been replaced. Definately, definately worth doing.