Khayyam Spire Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Alcohol Wall- Left to Right White - Gods Own Drun...
Khayyam spire is the prominent Spire with the bright yellow face. It stands out in front of the Spire 2/3 gully. The awsome South Yellow Face has a long bolted route (The Yellow Face), the rest of the spire has some great long crack routes including God's own Drunk, The Wildman Traverse and others.
The spire is the first major spire reached on the Cathedral Spires Trail. Follow the trail until you can move right and up to the base of the spire.
Weather station 5.1 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Khayyam Spire
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Khayyam Spire:
Yellow Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 3 pitches, 320'
Featured Route For Khayyam Spire
Meltdown 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
: Custer State Park
: ... : Khayyam Spire
This is a tough route even as a TR and the effort and energy to get the marginal and meager protection afforded would not make the route any easier... I am not guessing at its grade on lead. Start up the face on odd holds and with poor gear (5.9) to reach the bottom of a left-leaning crack (10a) where you can place a piece or two of small, so-so gear (pink tricam or an alien) and then up and right to a more vertical crack and some more so-so pro (stopper) then launch up the crack getting small ...[more] Browse More Classics in SD
BETA PHOTO: Khayyam Spire as seen from near the top of the Spi...
The Upper West Face of Khayyam Tower of the Needle...
From the top of Khayyam looking east.
The start of a 5.8 Kamp's Route on the south side ...
BETA PHOTO: A better overview of the wall. 1) G.O.D. 2) Meltdo...
By Greg Parker
Mar 12, 2003
Nate Renner and I did the Yellow Wall about five years ago and to this day it remains one of my most memorable ascents. The second pitch (12a) is amazing! Some of the sketchy bolts I have been replaced. Definately, definately worth doing.