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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 992
Submitted By: David Arthur Sampson on Jun 20, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Photo by Felica Terry


KGB has, I think, two crux sections. The first is the thin face near the start and the second is pulling the roof. This is a delicate climb with fun moves and sustained pulling. A good rest under the roof enables the on-sight or redpoint.


Creek-left, KGB can be spotted on your right as you enter the corridor of the waterfall area. Look for the short roof 60 up.


Seven bolts, two shut anchor. Well bolted.

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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 19, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

FA's Burns brothers (Gary & Bill) Ken Mills '92

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 20, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Greg, the shut is still the original. Lot's of threads on the bolt...I hand tightened it today.

Incidentally, the original 3 shut anchors up top have been replaced with 2 fatty petzl hangers about a foot below.

By Guiseppi Mostaccioli
From: Grand Canyon, AZ
Nov 9, 2009

Painful ledge-decking potential between bolts 2 and 3 on this route. Be careful there!

By K-Tanz
Sep 27, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Maybe my favorite climb in Atlantis. It has a little bit of everything from balancey moves to monster jugs. Long route. Definitely recommended

By Micah Kurtz
Nov 26, 2012

I am wondering if a hold broke up above the roof. It seemed harder then a 10b and I didn't see any chalk up there. It looked like most people have traversed right and finish on gigglin marlin. I also felt the bolt spacing is a little bold and somewhat dangerous with respect the the ledges below you. Clipping the 7th bolt above the roof was scary. The lower section is pretty fun though with committing crux moves in between the bolts.

By Adam-phx-trad
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 5, 2013

I was kinda noticing the same thing about the roof in respect to difficulty i couldn't seem to figure out the moves to get over it and had to traverse over to gigglin.
the bolt was tricky to clip but once you figure it out its not too bad definitely didnt want to fall while clipping though.

also there is a loose flake in between gigglin and KGB near the anchors be careful if you try to use it to traverse to the correct anchor