KGB 5.10b
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Description KGB has, I think, two crux sections. The first is the thin face near the start and the second is pulling the roof. This is a delicate climb with fun moves and sustained pulling. A good rest under the roof enables the on-sight or redpoint.
Location Creek-left, KGB can be spotted on your right as you enter the corridor of the waterfall area. Look for the short roof 60 up.
Protection Seven bolts, two shut anchor. Well bolted.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 19, 2008
rating: 5.10
| FA's Burns brothers (Gary & Bill) Ken Mills '92 |
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 20, 2008
rating: 5.10
| Greg, the shut is still the original. Lot's of threads on the bolt...I hand tightened it today.
Incidentally, the original 3 shut anchors up top have been replaced with 2 fatty petzl hangers about a foot below. |
By Guiseppi Mostaccioli
From: Grand Canyon, AZ
Nov 9, 2009
| Painful ledge-decking potential between bolts 2 and 3 on this route. Be careful there! |
By K-Tanz
Sep 27, 2010
rating: 5.10b
| Maybe my favorite climb in Atlantis. It has a little bit of everything from balancey moves to monster jugs. Long route. Definitely recommended |
By Micah Kurtz
Nov 26, 2012
| I am wondering if a hold broke up above the roof. It seemed harder then a 10b and I didn't see any chalk up there. It looked like most people have traversed right and finish on gigglin marlin. I also felt the bolt spacing is a little bold and somewhat dangerous with respect the the ledges below you. Clipping the 7th bolt above the roof was scary. The lower section is pretty fun though with committing crux moves in between the bolts. |
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