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a. The Uberfall
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Unsorted Routes:

Keyhole 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Doug Kerr, 1951
Page Views: 1,229
Submitted By: doligo on Nov 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Alexis pondering the route. The OW is fun but the ...

Description 

I have always been curious about this short climb - except for an occasional boulderer, I had never seen anyone even top-roping this climb. This past weekend, my partner and I found out why.

P1: Climb an obvious 4" left-leaning crack onto the ledge, follow the chimney/corner to the overhang and exit right. The crux is mid-crack at the chockstone. Grab the chockstone and chicken-wing your way up to good holds. Grey Dick rates it at 5.7 - it's probably a 5.7 for someone over 6', for they could grab the grimper on the right easily, for anyone shorter, the OW feels at least a 5.9. Hence there is the ambiguous 5.7+ grade. If anyone more experienced in OW, can enlighten me what grade this should go as an off-width, I'd be happy to change the grade. Wear old jeans/carhartts that you won't regret cutting off in case your knee gets stuck.

Variations:
There are two hand and finger cracks to the left of the OW, they supposedly go at 5.9 and 5.9+. These two cracks are also very popular bouldering problems.

Walk off left to descend.

Location 

An obvious wide crack on the carriage-road facing side of the Keyhole wall.

Protection 

You can leap-frog a #5 in the OW, it is also possible to sling the chockstone, but maybe more strenuous. The overhang at the top can be protected with a #4, but it is not necessary, there is some small gear on the face to the right.


Photos of Keyhole Slideshow Add Photo
5 inch, 7 inch... it took me 30 years to lead this short route.
BETA PHOTO: 5 inch, 7 inch... it took me 30 years to lead this...

Comments on Keyhole Add Comment
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By Steve Hazel
From: Logan, NJ
Nov 11, 2013

The OW is what is going to attract you to the climb but the roof up top is worth setting this up.