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Supercrack Buttress
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Too Much Cake T 
Triple Jeopardy T 
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Unknown T,TR 
Unknown on far left side of wall T 
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Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake T 
Unnamed T 
Unnamed Finger Crack Between Wild Works of Fire & IHC T 
Wave, The T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Keyhole Flake 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,823
Submitted By: Tradkelly on Nov 24, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (136)
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Jay enjoys the gradually tapering hand crack just ...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


There are some awkward sections, particularly prior to the transition from fingers to hands, but plenty of holds lower where they're useful, and a few places for feet stemming (it goes both as a lieback and a jam higher). Good anchors, 70' (I'm a wimp, used 16 pieces), and a good choice if solid jamfest climbs are occupied or if you're more mixed in your technique than just jam-jam-jam.

It's located 40 feet north (left) of Coyne's, faces west/northwest. Look for lower anchors than the other climbs in the area with a fingers flake opening to a left-facing #3 featured crack. The belay pad is a walkway along the buttress' base so be courteous.

I only rate it a 2-star because there are so many awesome cracks around it to climb. It's still very worthwhile and I thought an awesome climb.


Mix up medium to large cams; blue and yellow TCUs help low, and 4-5 #3-3.5 camalots higher, with a few other pieces in the spectrum. A #4 camalot works if you're light on 3s. Guidebooks vary in their suggestions of gear, but I was happier going heavy.

Photos of Keyhole Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: cruising on Keyhole
cruising on Keyhole
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping
Rock Climbing Photo: mike killin it on keyhole.
mike killin it on keyhole.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Robinson Key Hole Flake1
Mike Robinson Key Hole Flake1
Rock Climbing Photo: High Stepping into the Crack
High Stepping into the Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset on Keyhole
Sunset on Keyhole
Rock Climbing Photo: keyhole flake
keyhole flake
Rock Climbing Photo: Keenan leading the versitile flake
Keenan leading the versitile flake

Comments on Keyhole Flake Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Sofranko
Nov 30, 2001

This is a great varied route. My biggest piece was a #4 Friend, and I think I only brought one, but I was happy to have it.
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 7, 2001

good gear description. stewart green's book recommends gear to #3 friend (which seems really small for the top). i would definitely recommend bringing several pieces around #3 camalot size. fun route, kind of eldo-esque at the start (especially if you pound on the flake-drum at the bottom :)
By Craig Quincy
Oct 19, 2003

Some fist side gear is in order whether that's a #4 friend, a #4 camalot or a #3 - #3.5 camalot. A couple in that size might even be a good idea. Both the Indian Creek Climbs guide book and the Super Topo from Rock and Ice list the rack as only up to #2.5 friend. This is definitely an error.
By Lon Black
Apr 10, 2005

The awkward sections require some thought and footwork atypical of most Indian Creek splitters. Nice weight shifts and changing crack sizes and angles make this a fun, unique line.
By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
Apr 30, 2010

I agree....excellent route. 1 new #4 was handy.

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