Keyhole Flake 5.10
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Jay enjoys the gradually tapering hand crack just ...
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Description There are some awkward sections, particularly prior to the transition from fingers to hands, but plenty of holds lower where they're useful, and a few places for feet stemming (it goes both as a lieback and a jam higher). Good anchors, 70' (I'm a wimp, used 16 pieces), and a good choice if solid jamfest climbs are occupied or if you're more mixed in your technique than just jam-jam-jam.
It's located 40 feet north (left) of Coyne's, faces west/northwest. Look for lower anchors than the other climbs in the area with a fingers flake opening to a left-facing #3 featured crack. The belay pad is a walkway along the buttress' base so be courteous.
I only rate it a 2-star because there are so many awesome cracks around it to climb. It's still very worthwhile and I thought an awesome climb.
Protection Mix up medium to large cams; blue and yellow TCUs help low, and 4-5 #3-3.5 camalots higher, with a few other pieces in the spectrum. A #4 camalot works if you're light on 3s. Guidebooks vary in their suggestions of gear, but I was happier going heavy.
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| Comments on Keyhole Flake |
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By Mike Sofranko
Nov 30, 2001
| This is a great varied route. My biggest piece was a #4 Friend, and I think I only brought one, but I was happy to have it. |
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 7, 2001
| good gear description. stewart green's book recommends gear to #3 friend (which seems really small for the top). i would definitely recommend bringing several pieces around #3 camalot size. fun route, kind of eldo-esque at the start (especially if you pound on the flake-drum at the bottom :) |
By Craig Quincy
Oct 19, 2003
| Some fist side gear is in order whether that's a #4 friend, a #4 camalot or a #3 - #3.5 camalot. A couple in that size might even be a good idea. Both the Indian Creek Climbs guide book and the Super Topo from Rock and Ice list the rack as only up to #2.5 friend. This is definitely an error. |
By Lon Black
Apr 10, 2005
| The awkward sections require some thought and footwork atypical of most Indian Creek splitters. Nice weight shifts and changing crack sizes and angles make this a fun, unique line. |
By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
Apr 30, 2010
| I agree....excellent route. 1 new #4 was handy. |
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