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Keyhole Cliff area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Clune Crank 
Cronin Face 
Dr V 
Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gill Variation) 
Gill Egg (AKA Gillís Route), The 
Gill Pinch Roof 
Keyhole Crack Left 
Keyhole Crack Right 
Keyhole Offwidth 
Larsen's Problem 
Stacious 
Three Fools 
Winter's Agony 
Unsorted Routes:

Keyhole Cliff area 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,000'
Location: 41.7364, -74.1909 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,690
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Anthony Baraff on Aug 8, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: The Keyhole Cliff area: 1. ?Clune Crank (V1)?...

Description 

The Keyhole area is the first band of cliff that you find directly abutting the Undercliff Road as you walk north from the Trapps bridge. There are a number of great warm-ups intermingled with classic not-to-be-missed problems. Named for the 5.7 trad off-width crack climb and its two variations (5.9, 5.9+), all three of which are worthwhile V0s. Highlights in the area include the Gill Egg (V4), Clune Crank (V1), Gill Crack (V2), Dirty White Boys and Puerto Ricans (V7) and the Gill Pinch Roof (V4).


Getting There 

Walk three minutes north on the Undercliff Road from the Trapps Bridge.


Climbing Season


13 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',5],['V2-3',4],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Keyhole Cliff area:
Keyhole Offwidth   V0 4     Boulder, 15'   
Keyhole Crack Left   V0 4     Boulder, 12'   
Keyhole Crack Right   V0 4     Boulder, 12'   
Clune Crank   V1 5     Boulder, 10'   
Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gill Variation)   V2 5+     Boulder, 17'   
Three Fools   V3 6A     Boulder, 10'   
Gill Pinch Roof   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   
The Gill Egg (AKA Gillís Route)   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   
Browse More Classics in Keyhole Cliff area

Featured Route For Keyhole Cliff area
Micah, past the business and headed for the face with Tyler giving a spot.

Gill Pinch Roof V4 6B  NY : The Gunks : ... : Keyhole Cliff area
Just to the right of the face with the Keyhole crack problems there is a small covered alcove with a crack running up and right in the back to where it meets a horizontal crack below a low roof. There are two overlapping problems: the Gill Pinch Roof, and Larsen's Problem.For Gill Pinch, start with your hands in the crack, and reach out to the two black stained pinches at the left lip of the roof (donít use the left wall of the alcove, it is off). Use the higher pinch to reach the good handhold ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of Keyhole Cliff area Slideshow Add Photo
Sticking the toss on The Gill Egg
Sticking the toss on The Gill Egg
Tyler at the crux of Dirty White Boys and Puerto Ricans (V7).
Tyler at the crux of Dirty White Boys and Puerto R...
The Far left side of the Keyhole Cliff area: 1. Three Fools (V3), 2. Dr. V (V0-), 3. The Egg (V7), 4. The Gill Egg (V4)
BETA PHOTO: The Far left side of the Keyhole Cliff area: 1. Th...
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