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Keyhole Cliff area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Clune Crank 
Cronin Face 
Dr V 
Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gill Variation) 
Gill Egg (AKA Gillís Route), The 
Gill Pinch Roof 
Keyhole Crack Left 
Keyhole Crack Right 
Keyhole Offwidth 
Larsen's Problem 
Stacious 
Three Fools 
Winter's Agony 
Unsorted Routes:

Keyhole Cliff area  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,000'
Location: 41.7364, -74.1909 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,174
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Baraff on Aug 8, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: The Keyhole Cliff area: 1. Clune Crank (V1), 2. Th...

Description 

The Keyhole area is the first band of cliff that you find directly abutting the Undercliff Road as you walk north from the Trapps bridge. There are a number of great warm-ups intermingled with classic not-to-be-missed problems. Named for the 5.7 trad off-width crack climb and its two variations (5.9, 5.9+), all three of which are worthwhile V0s. Highlights in the area include the Gill Egg (V4), Clune Crank (V1), Gill Crack (V2), Dirty White Boys and Puerto Ricans (V7) and the Gill Pinch Roof (V4).

Getting There 

Walk three minutes north on the Undercliff Road from the Trapps Bridge.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.0 miles from here

13 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',5],['V2-3',4],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Keyhole Cliff area:
Keyhole Offwidth   V0 4     Boulder, 15'   
Keyhole Crack Left   V0 4     Boulder, 12'   
Keyhole Crack Right   V0 4     Boulder, 12'   
Clune Crank   V1 5     Boulder, 10'   
Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gill Variation)   V2 5+     Boulder, 17'   
Three Fools   V3 6A     Boulder, 10'   
Gill Pinch Roof   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   
The Gill Egg (AKA Gillís Route)   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   
Browse More Classics in Keyhole Cliff area

Featured Route For Keyhole Cliff area
Tyler working his feet into position before shooting for the good high dish.

The Gill Egg (AKA Gillís Route) V4 6B  NY : The Gunks : ... : Keyhole Cliff area
Are all of John Gillís routes this good, or did he have the good sense to only attach his name to the classics? I guess it doesnít matter; as is the case with the other problems that bear his name in this area, this is a must do. Start on the rock below the egg. Work your hands up to the small incut holds on the lip of the egg. Climb to the top. If only it were that easy!...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of Keyhole Cliff area Slideshow Add Photo
Sticking the toss on The Gill Egg
Sticking the toss on The Gill Egg
Tyler at the crux of Dirty White Boys and Puerto Ricans (V7).
Tyler at the crux of Dirty White Boys and Puerto R...
The Far left side of the Keyhole Cliff area: 1. Three Fools (V3), 2. Dr. V (V0-), 3. The Egg (V7), 4. The Gill Egg (V4)
BETA PHOTO: The Far left side of the Keyhole Cliff area: 1. Th...

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