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The Keyhole area is the first band of cliff that you find directly abutting the Undercliff Road as you walk north from the Trapps bridge. There are a number of great warm-ups intermingled with classic not-to-be-missed problems. Named for the 5.7 trad off-width crack climb and its two variations (5.9, 5.9+), all three of which are worthwhile V0s. Highlights in the area include the Gill Egg (V4), Clune Crank (V1), Gill Crack (V2), Dirty White Boys and Puerto Ricans (V7) and the Gill Pinch Roof (V4).
Walk three minutes north on the Undercliff Road from the Trapps Bridge.
Browse More Classics in Keyhole Cliff area
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Keyhole Cliff area:
Keyhole Offwidth V0 Boulder, 15 feet
Keyhole Crack Left V0 Boulder, 12 feet
Keyhole Crack Right V0 Boulder, 12 feet
Clune Crank V1 Boulder, 10 feet
Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gill Variation) V2 Boulder, 17 feet
Three Fools V3 Boulder, 10 feet
Gill Pinch Roof V4 Boulder, 15 feet
The Gill Egg (AKA Gillís Route) V4 Boulder, 12 feet
Featured Route For Keyhole Cliff area
Gill Pinch Roof V4 NY : The Gunks : ... : Keyhole Cliff area
Just to the right of the face with the Keyhole crack problems there is a small covered alcove with a crack running up and right in the back to where it meets a horizontal crack below a low roof. There are two overlapping problems: the Gill Pinch Roof, and Larsen's Problem.For Gill Pinch, start with your hands in the crack, and reach out to the two black stained pinches at the left lip of the roof (donít use the left wall of the alcove, it is off). Use the higher pinch to reach the good handhold ...[more] Browse More Classics in NY