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Key Hole 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: fall, spring, winter
Page Views: 4,372
Submitted By: Jared Spaulding on Nov 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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Moments before getting spanked by the 0.75 Camalot...


This is a short, splitter, hand crack. Make a few finger moves between pods at the bottom with a short traverse left before climbing straight up thin hands to hands (crux) to a two bolt anchor with chains.


This route is located to the left of the Bunny Ramp route by about 100 yards. It is an obvious splitter in white rock that is visible from the parking area.


#3 TCU up through #2 Camalot. I used 2 #0.75 Camalots and 2 #3 TCUs, as well as the other recommended gear.

Photos of Key Hole Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving his foot up the green Camalot size crack.
Moving his foot up the green Camalot size crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: View from base of climb. Watch out for loose rocks...
BETA PHOTO: View from base of climb. Watch out for loose rocks...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looks like BD 0.75 and 1, does that equal 10a?    ...
Looks like BD 0.75 and 1, does that equal 10a? ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chockstone directly left of the anchors is good. L...
BETA PHOTO: Chockstone directly left of the anchors is good. L...
Rock Climbing Photo: #1 Key Hole, 5.10-.
BETA PHOTO: #1 Key Hole, 5.10-.
Rock Climbing Photo: Another shot of the 10a hand crack.  Climber is ju...
BETA PHOTO: Another shot of the 10a hand crack. Climber is ju...
Rock Climbing Photo: April flexing in front of Key Hole crack.
April flexing in front of Key Hole crack.
Rock Climbing Photo:  Starting the jams.
Starting the jams.
Rock Climbing Photo: Key Hole plaque, still in one piece.
Key Hole plaque, still in one piece.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kyle on lead.
Kyle on lead.

Comments on Key Hole Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joshh
From: Denver, CO
Nov 21, 2008

This was a great route...similar crack size progression as Scarface in Indian Creek. That is of course following the fun finger crack start.
By Jeremy Franz
From: Berthoud, CO
Jan 13, 2009

Just for reference, Scarface is rated 5.11a/b. Possible confirmation that this is a bit of a sandbag???
By slim
Jan 13, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

10a seemed about right when I did it some years ago. Scarface has a steeper start, and this crack has more of a positive feel to it through the thin hands section. The thin hands section on Scarface also feels a bit steeper than the thin hands section on this one. Just my $.02.
By Eli Steiger
From: Gunnison, Co
Mar 1, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route is known as Key Hole. It's a really good climb! I agree with Slim, not nearly as hard as Scarface.
By Greg Sievers
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 30, 2009

Caution, heroes.
Anyone looking at this route should also know it's mostly all #0.75 & #1 Camalots. Now, if that's .10a for your hands = enjoy youself, but keep in mind that I thought Super Crack was 5.8 which for some may be OW and LB.
As I've always said: "desert cracks make you critically aware of your anatomical shortcoming and prowess".
By Carol Kotchek
From: Louisville, Colorado
May 9, 2010

Did this route yesterday. I have small hands. Seemed like 10c to me. Trickey moves through the pods and then pretty tight hands. Possibly ring locks for bigger hands? Definitely more difficult then Generic Crack at the Creek.
By Martin Harris
Oct 28, 2010

I got on this today, my hardest trad lead to date, and it was a great route. Went from great finger locks down low to rattly fingers to perfect ring locks to thin hands, and when I thought I could go no more I hit perfect hands to the top and ran it to the chains. Great varied climb and thank god for those pod rests.
Yellow TCU down low, old and now brown Alien prects the first pod then 1 #0.75, 2 slammed number ones, and a number two.
By Alex Vidal
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I led this climb initially and felt a bit frantic when I realized I would have to utilize ringlock techniques on a measly 10a. I took a lap after to realize there are solid pods and constrictions for the ringlocks, making this one seem even closer to 5.9 if you are utilizing all the opportunities for rests, good feet, and good hands. There are solid stances for placing gear as a result. I'd call it an honest 10a and representative of the grade in most trad areas.

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