This thing is about as fun as a 20 foot route can get. The bottom part is thin, balancy, and crimpy. This takes you to a pretty good rest on flakes under the roof. Then prepare to make a couple super burly, insecure moves over the roof to the chains.
Using the right arete on the bottom part or the left arete at the top reduces the difficulty and fun. In other words, they're there to assist your redpoint suicide.
Around the corner to the left from Dr. Teeth, on the east side of the formation. The route gets afternoon shade.
3 bolts to anchors.
A thoroughly uninspiring pic of Jeff on the route.
Canyon going up and over the roof
|By Tristan Higbee|
Jul 23, 2010
This is a sweet little route! The moves over the roof are insane. Like I said above, don't use the left or right corners. They're not too close to the line but you could probably use them to bail if you needed to.
Now that there are two routes up here, it's more worth the trip. There's a lot of climbing in this 20 feet! The route can be toproped easily by hiking up and around from the left side. Also, I haven't been climbing much recently so I'm a bit fuzzy on the grade. More feedback would be appreciated.
Finally, off of these anchors you can TR the corner to the left and the crack a little bit more to the left. Both are 5.6/5.7ish and fun.
|By Canyon Copa|
May 29, 2012
Short, solid route with a really awesome move up over the roof. Great place to come when you and a couple friends only have a couple hours as there are two short routes just around the corner from each other.