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Kevizan 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Steve Wunsch & John Bragg, Summer 1977
Page Views: 611
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Jul 19, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Cragmaster finishing pitch one.

Description 

This one is much better than anticipated. What looks like a wide nightmare on poor rock turned out to be very enjoyable. Face climbing around most wide sections (my favorite), perfect natural belays, amazing last pitch, and a sweet walk-off.
P1: 5.10, 150' Cruise up to the small right facing chimney. Pull bulge and continue 'til you reach a nice ledge with a pin. Small gear for anchor.
P2: 5.10-, 65' Go for the large crack off the climber's left side of the belay ledge. Bust left onto face before horizontal. Stop at an even bigger belay ledge down and left of the large overhang. Medium gear for anchor.
P3: 5.10, 70' Pull final overhang and enjoy an atypical needles finger/hand crack to the top.

Location 

Start between prominent buttress (on left) and very large boulder. Finish on obvious high point on E face. Navigate your way back towards visible hiker's trail to the W.

Protection 

Doubles to #3, single #4, nuts


Photos of Kevizan Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Slightly better view of the route. There's a fixed...
BETA PHOTO: Slightly better view of the route. There's a fixed...
Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch goes up left from the belay ledge to ...
BETA PHOTO: Second pitch goes up left from the belay ledge to ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Right up the center
Right up the center

Comments on Kevizan Add Comment
Show which comments
By Cheyenne Chaffee
From: North Conway, NH
Jul 21, 2012

Climbed this today. Great route with good gear, mostly good rock quality and good exposure. Quite easy to combine the second and third pitch with judicious use of long runners. #4 was nice to have. Would fit perfect to protect the pull over the roof near the top.
By Robbie Freidel
From: The Needles of South Dakota
Aug 28, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

would definitely recommend a number 4. a number 5 could be useful though unnecessary. crazy exposure. try looking down when pulling that roof.
By CraigKnyn
From: Custer, SD
Apr 10, 2016

Did the route w Austin F. yesterday and ... it is one burly, slightly overhung, sustained crack climb. Be ready for 5.11 style climbing at the two cruxes. Used a #4 Camalot and a #5 Friend. Our small haul bag barely touched the wall on all 3 pitches.
By Austin Fisher
Apr 18, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Yer gonna want a #4 or two for sure

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