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Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern Slabs)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chouinard Special T,S 
Claustrophobia Crack T 
Cornflakes T,TR 
Dirty Dishes S 
Friction Slab T 
Initiation Crack T 
Just for Kicks S 
Lieback, The T 
Top Out T 

Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern Slabs) Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 2,720'
Location: 35.81569, -118.45446 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,610
Administrators: Matthew Fienup, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Katy H on Oct 15, 2008
Forecast:
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Description 

Beautiful slabby granite that can be climbed all year long. Definitely need good rubber for alot of the climbs. Many spots overlook the Kern River, which provides a great post-climb dip!

Getting There 

From Kernville take the Upper Kern River Road just under 5 miles. You will see the slabs uphill, to the East. If you hit Dome Rock (large dome-ish granite outcrop) you have gone too far, although there are fun climbs on Dome Rock.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.5 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern Slabs)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern Slabs):
Claustrophobia Crack   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 260'   
Dirty Dishes   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 170'   
Friction Slab   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   
Chouinard Special   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
The Lieback   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Cornflakes   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X     Trad, TR, 160'   
Just for Kicks   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 160'   
Initiation Crack   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern Slabs)

Featured Route For Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern Slabs)
Rock Climbing Photo: Tyson Dimmitt nears the top of the first pitch of ...

The Lieback 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CA : Southern Sierra : ... : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern...
Follow the left-facing dihedralP1-Finger sized crack up past small bush/treeBelay at the notch with the perpendicular crack (there is a lot of debris from old gear and such)P2-Continue up dihedral to ledgeClimb straight up past a single bolt (5.8 PG) to a bolted belay or go left past an undercling (protectable, but its hard to see the gear). At the end of the undercling, head up through an intermittent crack in a groove. There is a bolted belay above on the left. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern Slabs) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Michael McKay climbs the Lieback (5.8), the true c...
Michael McKay climbs the Lieback (5.8), the true c...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me high up on the Kernville Slabs 80's
Me high up on the Kernville Slabs 80's
Rock Climbing Photo: Kernville Rock (A.K.A. Kern Slabs)
Kernville Rock (A.K.A. Kern Slabs)
Rock Climbing Photo: Me at the base of the Kernville Slabs in the 80's ...
Me at the base of the Kernville Slabs in the 80's ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kernville Rock
Kernville Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Kernville Rock Topo Pink: Bugging Around (5.8 R) R...
BETA PHOTO: Kernville Rock Topo Pink: Bugging Around (5.8 R) R...
Rock Climbing Photo: Aerial view of the parking and approach trail for ...
BETA PHOTO: Aerial view of the parking and approach trail for ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kernville Rock Topo Red: Cornflakes (5.9+ X) Orang...
BETA PHOTO: Kernville Rock Topo Red: Cornflakes (5.9+ X) Orang...
Rock Climbing Photo: My brother Doug Odenthal at the Kernville slabs in...
My brother Doug Odenthal at the Kernville slabs in...
Rock Climbing Photo: Romain Wacziarg enjoys the stellar climbing on Ker...
Romain Wacziarg enjoys the stellar climbing on Ker...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kernville Rock
Kernville Rock

Comments on Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern Slabs) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Oct 14, 2009
To be even more specific: park on the east side of the road, in the turnout just below the southern flank of the crag (70 yards down the road from a point below the center of the crag). A well developed climbers trail starts in this turnout and diagonals upward to the center of the crag.

Directly below the center of the dome is a boulder-filled gully that uninitiated climbers (like us, last week) clearly use to access the crag. The gully is no fun.
By Jacob L.
Nov 16, 2010
Climbed here last weekend, needed a 70 meter for a few routs it seemed, had run out on two climbs. Bolts are FAR apart in some spots, 20' or so. Tuff hike up, about kilt my wife, great traction on the slab though.
By Guy Keesee
From: Moorpark, CA
Jan 18, 2016
Ha... just looked at this... Jacob L. if you think this is a Tuff Hike,Kern River climbing is not for you. This is without question the easiest hike around.......

70m is probably a good thing to have. When this place was being developed... late 70's early 80's Sportclimbing was not even thought of, everyone climbed on 50's with a extra 50 at the ready. Putting in extra bolts was sort of frowned on.

On top of KS is some of the best bouldering in the Canyon... its worth checking out as well as the fine bouldering at the bottom of the KS, right next to the road.
By Herb Laeger
Jun 19, 2016
I have just completed an new guidebook to Kern Slabs and New Directions Cliffs. It includes approximately 100 routes and is now available at kernvalleyclimbs.com I hope it makes the area more popular with climbers.

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