A summit route at 5.3 without caving? What more can you ask for? This climb is a bit broken up, to say the least, but still has some fun for the party who is competent at placing gear, but doesn't want a physical challenge. Climb up the intial wide crack though the chunky-looking rock on good holds and the occasional jammed body part for a short pitch, to reach an initial ledge with trees. There is an optional belay from one of these (sometimes fixed slings are present). Continue up and left on a second crak to a larger ledge and belay on that one (manditory). From that ledge, walk or scramble a half-rope length on the ledge and over some blocks to the left to reach the base of an overhanging chimney (optional belay) before shoving oneself up through that slot and onto the tower summit.
Location
A set of passive pro and cams to #4 camalot + long slings.
Protection
It is easy to find this route by first locating the obvious clean flake of 'Curving Crack' and then walking 15 meters left to the next obvious crack system, where the climb is begun.
By Brad Killough IV Administrator From: hartselle, Alabama Jul 20, 2009
Sounds like fun! Wheres the pic's we want to see picks!
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Oct 27, 2009 rating: 5.6
I'd be interested in knowing where the second pitch goes on this route. I could see a squeeze chimney (not really a crack) that looked dirty and unprotectable; it didn't look like the way to go, so I pulled the overhang to the left and climbed up to some blank slab that seemed to be a dead end. So I downclimbed/downled back to the P1 ledge, hoping I'd be able to reverse my moves. At that point, we just bailed.
Not what I'd call a particularly worthwhile route, and laughably undergraded at 5.3.
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