One of the most popular 5.12a's at the Red, Twinkie is an excellent route with two distinct personalities: yellow & spongey at first, followed by a white creamy center. And just like the Hostess version, it helps to be well-rounded to enjoy this treat.
Begin with a reachy boulder problem to gain the slab. Easy moves between slopey pockets leads to a gnarly little slab crux involving a sharp 1/4" crimp and a sidepull mono. Above this a series of jugs lead to a great rest below the intimidating overhang. Follow massive jugs up the steep wall to a difficult move getting to the 3rd bolt on the overhanging, then more jugs to the redpoint crux: one not-so great pinch just before reaching the arete. A sit-down rest provides one last breather before the sprint to the anchor on more enormous jugs.
Location
Twinkie climbs the left-most line on the massive overhang on the right end of the Phantasia cliff. It begins a few eet left of Phantasia.
The bottom of this and Phantasia seep pretty badly in a good rain. So while you are sheltered from the rain the starting slab might be pretty wet. So don't plan on these for a rainy day.
i was really looking forward to copping such an iconic rest, but i was very disappointed once i actually sat in it. sitting in the slot is so insecure! i had arm bar/handjam/pinch with my right hand to keep me from sliding out of the slot. i found that double knee bars work much better. either way, what a crazy feature!
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