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Phantasia

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Attack of the Sand Shark 
Count Floyd Show 
Creature Feature 
Creep Show 
Lord of the Flies 
Overlord 
Phantasia 
Pogue Ethics 
St. Alfonso's 
Twinkie 

Phantasia

Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 4, 2006
Administrator: saxfiend
Views: 2,212 page views

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  Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!

Enjoying the stellar Creep Show.


Description 

Phantasia is the Red River Gorge's original roadside sport crag. It has a nice spread of routes from the gumby classic testpiece Creture Feature to the insanely steep and insanely classic Twinkie.

Despite the rock being predominantly northeast facing the rock quality is surprisingly good.


Getting There 

From Slade take highway 15 west for 1 mile. Turn right onto hwy 77. Continue on 77 through Nada Tunnel and across the Iron Bridge (Menifee Co. Line). Drive a bit further to a split in the road and bear left heading up the hill. When the rock becomes visible to the left side of the road look for pulloffs on the right. There is an obvious trail that will take you from the biggest pulloff to Creature Feature.

Parking area GPS: 37.8449, -83.6434


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Phantasia:
Creature Feature   5.9     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Pogue Ethics   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Overlord   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Creep Show   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Count Floyd Show   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Twinkie   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Browse More Classics in Phantasia

Featured Route For Phantasia
Not the best photo but this was the best sport climb I've done it The Red...<br />perfect climb in my humble opinion...

Creep Show 5.10d  KY : Red River Gorge : Phantasia
A pumpy 10d next to a technical 11b. I've heard it several times that climbers believed that the grades on these two routes were reversed!Get on to the left of the two sport routes and head up and left on it into an awkward and pumpy left-leaning flake. Balance and grip your way to the anchors on this climb, then compare to the route to the right......[more]   Browse More Classics in KY


Photos of Phantasia Slideshow Add Photo
Enjoying the popular jughaul "Twinkie" at Phantasia.

Enjoying the popular jughaul "Twinkie" at Phantasi...


Comments on Phantasia Add Comment
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By Jeffrey LeCours
Feb 24, 2009

I'm excited to get my fingers on the various steep routes on this wall this spring. :)