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Muir Valley

Submitted By: saxfiend on Oct 4, 2006
Administrator: saxfiend
Views: 17,449 page views

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BETA PHOTO: Bolt testing done in Muir Valley.


Description 

Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, the valley is home to more than 20 separate climbing areas, all open to climbers at no charge.

While there's a smattering of trad lines, the climbing in Muir Valley is mostly sport. Muir has a reputation for soft grading, but don't take it for granted. There's also a lot of variety in the valley; new leaders can have fun at places like the Great Wall or Bruise Brothers, while hard climbers can throw themselves at the 12s and 13s of the Sanctuary.

The Webers are generous with access to their valley treasure, but there are some rules that must be followed. A complete list can be found at http://www.muirvalley.com, but the most important are listed below:

  • All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. This can be done online at the above URL.
  • The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
  • No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley.


Getting There 

If you're driving from Miguel's, follow KY 11 south for about six miles to the intersection with KY 715. Take 715 for about 2.5 miles, then turn right onto CR 2016. Follow this road just over a mile past a closed carpet store, then take the first gravel road to the left. Continue down this road, bearing left at each fork. After about 3/4 of a mile, turn right on a gravel drive to the parking area (you'll see a garage). Take the appropriate trail to the area where you plan to climb.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Muir Valley:
The Offering   5.7     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Bruise Brothers Wall
Send Me on My Way   5.9-     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Bruise Brothers Wall
First Fall   5.9     Trad, 60 feet   The Sanctuary
Plate Tectonics   5.9+     Sport, 70 feet   Tectonic Wall
Rat Stew   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Bruise Brothers Wall
Bad Company   5.10b     Sport, 50 feet   Inner Sanctum
Little Viper   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Bruise Brothers Wall
Boltergeist   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet   The Hideout
Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky   5.10b     Sport, 60 feet   Tectonic Wall
Fifth Bolt Faith   5.10b/c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Tectonic Wall
Karmic Retribution   5.10c     Sport, 45 feet   Inner Sanctum
Workin For the Weekend   5.10c     Sport, 70 feet   Bruise Brothers Wall
Annie the Annihilator   5.10c     Sport, 40 feet   Indy wall
Pre-emptive Strike   5.10c     Sport, 90 feet   The Hideout
Return of Manimal   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Bruise Brothers Wall
Makin' Bacon   5.10d     Sport, 40 feet   Indy wall
Critters on the Cliff   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Bruise Brothers Wall
Jungle Trundler   5.11a     Sport, 60 feet   Bruise Brothers Wall
Manifest Destiny   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   The Solarium
Triple Sec aka Fifty Bucks   5.12c/d     Sport, 95 feet   The Sanctuary
Browse More Classics in Muir Valley

Featured Route For Muir Valley
Past the crux on Boltergeist. Photo by Huong.

Boltergeist 5.10b  KY : Red River Gorge : ... : The Hideout
Great climbing that never seems to quit. Soft for the grade, Boltergeist makes a terrific choice for a leader's first 10b.Thin moves at the start make stick clipping a prudent choice. Climb on good edges and ledges past several bolts and a bulge to a nice rest ledge. Continue up the face to more purely slabby climbing at the finish....[more]   Browse More Classics in KY


Photos of Muir Valley Slideshow Add Photo
The hidden Hemlock

BETA PHOTO: The hidden Hemlock

this is me climbing Naughty Neighbors 5.10d at The Inner Sanctum at Muir Valley...

this is me climbing Naughty Neighbors 5.10d at The...


Comments on Muir Valley Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Jim Matt
From: Indianapolis, IN
Dec 6, 2006

This area is owned by two climbers, Liz and Rick Weber (two great people). They have a Web site detailing climbing rules, etc.

http://www.muirvalley.com

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 13, 2007

Muir Valley is awesome, many many classic climbs here make the drive(and hike) worthwhile, and then some!!

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 3, 2007

Be aware that most of the ratings in Muir are considered soft(doesn't mean they aren't wicked fun).

By Jim Matt
From: Indianapolis, IN
May 19, 2007

That is the general feel, although try Cindarella at the Boneyard. Rated 5.9, more like a 10b. On the other hand, I lead "Dyno-Mite" today rated 5.9, more like an easy 5.8. YMMV...

By Paul Corsaro
From: Indianapolis, IN
Sep 23, 2008

although many of the routes do have soft grades, it is not a blanket characteristic. some of the harder routes of their grades are at muir, as well as some of the softer ones. fantastic place to climb with very many classic routes. The surf is easily one of the best crags at the Red, and the Sanctuary and Solarium are two impressive walls as well.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 14, 2008

My favorite place to visit when in the area, amazing climbing.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 14, 2008

Hey Remo. I haven't been to Muir but the Red is the shit. Muir is threatened although it seems like it's in the very easy stages of threat. Check here on Redriverclimbing.com and here on Climbingnarc.com for details and see what we can do to help.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 14, 2008

Oops I missed here on mountainproject.

By Brian Runnells
Nov 18, 2008

Also, don't forget the Friends Of Muir Valley access group. They are often overlooked in favor of the RRGGC, but they do important work maintaining everything in Muir.

By Custer
From: Montrose, CO
14 hours ago

About two years ago, my first time in Muir Valley, my self and my bud were warming up on some easy climbs on Bruise Brother's wall. Well, as we were climbing, someone went up Jungle Trumbler and told the belayer at the bottom to get back because they were creating some holds with a hammer. The belayer said "okay Rick". And POW, we could here him hammering on the rock at the top of the climb. Then we heard Rick at the top say, "OK, I didnt think there was a good hold at the top for cliping the anchors".