Rock Wars is one of the finest routes in the Red and offers a little of everything, except off-width. Start off on moderate climbing and stem,lock and jam your way up for some moderate climbing to a tiny "roof" where the crack/flake stick out to the right and you are forced to move with it. High feet to the right and a positive finger lock/lieback (5.9) get you through the first crux and up to the anchors. Stop at the anchor if you feel compelled, or better yet, clip one of the bolts with a sling and get up and into the left-leaning handcrack (5.10a) to the second set of anchors.
Location
Walk right from the approach trail along the wall until you stand below a massive light-colored roof, a few hundred feet up. There is a large boulder under this, perhaps 15 meters back from the wall. A left-facing obtuse corner in orange/brown rock on the left has a hand-crack (Autumn) and a right-facing obtuse corner is on the right with a thinner crack and lighter rock (Rock Wars).
Protection
Gear to 3." The 1st pitch crux gear is first-to-second knuckle sized cams. If you run all the way up to the top in a single pitch, the second pitch is crux on hand-to-wide hands gear. The flake is thin in spots and stoppers have been known to pop out with flex in the rock, but cams are pretty secure. Place them a little deep just to be safe.
Long Wall
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