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Dragonslayer 

5.10d

   

FA: M Williams, C. Tabor, 1990
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 483 page views

Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Nov 14, 2006


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Description 

A short pitch, but the whole thing is good. THe brevity of it is mitigated by the chance to climb it, AWOL, and Crazy Fingers all back-to-back, for 150 feet of great climbing, all at ~ the same grade and character.

Just a few feet right of A.W.O.L. is a second climb of a similar grade, perhaps a shave harder. Your success on this climb is dependent on having some finger strength, and on finding and using some thin footholds. The monos are not 'hangers' because you have good feet to hold your weight, they are just for holding you in, so the stress is not incredible. The route also gets easier as you progress.


Location 

After the approach to Roadside Wall, stay right and as soon as you come under a bulge and into the main wall amphitheatre, you will see 3 sport routes in close proximity on a bulging wall to your left. Dragon Slayer is the center of the three and can be distinguished by the two "mono" pockets about 5 meters up.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Be careful clipping the second bolt- it is best to climb an extra move and clip from the good hold than to hang out below and pull extra slack.



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By Chris Chaney
From: Golden, Colorado
Nov 14, 2006

I think this is the least in quality of the three (four) tens. There is a danger of decking if you don't pick the right clipping holds at the second bolt.

By Jennifer Hare
From: Westminster, CO
Dec 19, 2006

Awesome route. I would give AWOL the lowest in quality, however, everyone else seems to like AWOL. Dragonslayer has great moves on monos going to the first bolt and difficultly eases significantly thereafter. The first bolt height has been raised and therefore decking is unlikely unless you totally blow the clip.

By 426
Apr 2, 2007

Classic pocket pulling, very popular

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jun 7, 2007
rating: 5.10d

Make sure you warm up your tendons if this climb is pushing your limit, the monos are demanding.