Milkin' the Chicken 

FA:  M Williams, 1990 Type:  Trad, Sport Consensus:  5.12a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 50 feet Season:  Faces SW Views: 90 page views Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Oct 11, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This climb was rated 5.11a in 1991, but I broke some holds off it in an early ascent as did many others. This has become harder due to those deteriorating holds. I suspect (hope) that the climb has become more stable, however.
Head up a few vertical moves to small holds and pull into a shallow dish. Sling a horn (chicken-head) and head up to the anchors on easier moves.

Location 

Take the right-hand fork of the approach trail to encounter this climb on your left as you first reach the cliff base. This is just left of the flat overhanging wall housing a row of more popular sport-climbs such as AWOL and Dragon Slayer.

Protection 

A few draws and a sling for a chicken-head. There is a runout up top on easier ground to the anchors.