Tony Bubb on Ro Shambo, (11c) at Roadside Crag in ...
Description
A stellar sport route. Climb up steep face on plates and edges to chains. Easy for the grade, it felt more like a solid 5.11 in my opinion. A great lead for someone trying to break into the grade, especially if you have a big reach.
Protection
Well bolted with a chain anchor.
Location
Continue right on the appoach trail past the 5.10 wall to the overhanging wall just right of Harder Than Your Husband. Shares the first bolt with Tic Tac Toe. To get to Roadside Crag drive about 6 miles South on KY 11 from the rest area and park on the right. The trailhead is across the street, and a short approach leads to the base of the wall at the start of Roadside Attraction.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Sep 18, 2006 rating: 5.11c
The upper part of the route has a few holds that can seep after a long period of heavy rains. The grade of this route is dubious and always has been. It goes static at 11c, and is well-fit for power climbers.
I agree with Tony it is really more like solid 5.11 but was listed at 5.12a in the book so that's what I put in the description. Definitely easier if you have a good reach.
Im not a RRG local or anything but it feels like the 5.12a's ive climbed in New Hampshire... Maybe after climbing it a few times I'd find beta that could make it more moderate...
Roadside Crag
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