A beautiful dihedral crack. Scramble to a ledge, then jam, stem, and lieback past a belay station to the top and anchor off of a tree.
Protection
This crack protects extremely well. There is a belay about halfway up if you want to make it 2 pitches. On top there are slings & rap rings around the belay tree. You can rap the route in two rappels or make it in one rap with a 70m rope.
Location
The route is the obvious huge dihedral where the approach trail meets the wall. To get to Roadside Crag drive about 6 miles South on KY 11 from the rest area and park on the right. The trailhead is across the street, and a short approach leads to the base of the wall.
By Chris Chaney From: Golden, Colorado Sep 27, 2006
Don't belay from the tree at the first ledge. Not a good anchor and it won't last if people keep using it. Better to build an anchor in the crack at the ledge if you must split the climb into two pitches. There are bolt anchors at 60m on the higher ledge.
A couple of #2 Camalots protect the crack on the lower part perfectly. Climbing beyond the bolted rap/belay station isn't all that interesting. Fun jamming and liebacking to an exciting finish.
Roadside Crag
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