At present, I understand that this climb is closed for archeological reasons. I have heard that a geo-cache might someday make access possible again, but don't know if that is a real plan or a pipe dream. It would be nice if it happened, if not for this route, for others in the immediate area, like Beenestaker. A climb with a super steep start and many great pockets, and many bad ones. I recall someone saying once that "the holds are all 5.11 holds, you just have to figure out which ones to use, then use them all before you pump out." That seems to be pretty accurate to me. I was able to do the moves way back when, but never redpointed it. Yet I have seen it done by headlamp at night... Pull up onto the route above the gap at the start and get the steepest section out of the way early- start climbing and clipping, being sure to get the right pockets for the best holds. The crux is near the top when you are good and pumped, just before reaching the huge holds at the arete.
Location
On the right side of the approach trail, continue 50 meters or so past the Nicorette Arete and look up in front of you. A crack rises up and right for 20 feet before turning thin and shooting up a steep, right-leaning dihedral, Beenestalker (10d). Just to the right of that, through a concave start and up a steep, pocketed face with bolts, is Thirsting Skull.
Military Wall
RSS Feed
