A good climb despite being wide up top. Perhaps the best easy introduction to offwidth around, the top will fit and arm and perhaps your head. Many a gumby leader has survived learning to lead on this route even before the advent of what we refer to as 'large cams' these days. The traditional grade of this climb was a sandbag at 5.2.
Location
Walk left in the main amphitheatre about 1/2 way to the end, passing the distinctive American Wall and American Crack. Continue on the trail passing between a large flat boulder and the main cliff and around a small protrudance a short distance. You will immediately pass a left-facing corner with a wide crack up top. THis is "Calypso III, 5.4". Just to the left further still you will see a right leaning crack with a small tree growing on a chockstone near the bottom of it, "Snake 5.8".
Protection
A rack of cams from small to as large as you have, provided you want gear up top. Most people just run the top out a little,as it is not difficult.
By Chris Chaney From: Golden, Colorado Feb 21, 2007
This route used to be much dirtier. Since bolt anchors were placed and climbers don't have to top out in the sand, the route stays much cleaner. Definitely one of the most popular routes at the wall. If you want to sew it up, bring a rack up to #4 or #4.5 or if you want to do it all passive bring a set of stoppers and a set of hexes up to #11. Long slings help no matter what, as the placements tend to be deep up high.
Fortress Wall
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