Jakob on Creature Feature... climbing the awsome j...
Description
A "hero" climb with one cool steep move and a lot of huge holds. Get up to the ledge at the base of the route, just below the big roof and clip a bolt. Lean out over the roof to some big holds and ape your way onto those. You can practically campus the route from there, but heel-hooks look cooler. Clip a bolt above the roof and pull up to stand on the less-than-vertical face. Continue up on plates and puzzle pieces to a set of anchors and lower off. Or continue on plates and edges to the top of the rock with nuts and slings for gear.
Location
Approach Phantasia Wall from the road via the main trail (right) and go slightly left at the split to the obvious low roof with bolts and a heavily plated, low-angle face above. This is Creature Feature.
Protection
A handful of draws plus some slings and nuts to finish the climb is so desired. It is generally still done just to the anchors (20 meters) as a single sport pitch.
Fun climb. The crux is at the beginning on the slab. If you're going to fall it'll most likely be here. Clip under roof then reach up over lip to great juggy plates. Pop over lip then continue on juggy holds all the way to the top. This route seems to stay wet a lot so don't go if it's rained within the past few days. In colder weather, do it in the morning, as the sun will shine on it then.
Phantasia
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