Randy Childers heads up the upper part of the uppe...
Description
A great route normally done as 2 short pitches. Climb a left-angling flake to a big ledge with a huge block on it. Belay here to avoid a bad line with your rope, even though you are not yet more than 50' up. Walk right to a second crack in the wall which ascends up and right on hand jams (crux) and horizontal holds through a steep section headed out right towards an arete. Finish on face moves to reach the top. Belay & rap from bolt anchors.
Location
Around to the far left of Fortress wall and around the left side of the amphitheatre, to the West face. Go along this face for perhaps 50 yards to reach a left-angling flake to a ledge- the beginning of Bedtime for Bonzo.
A good route with good sections, but it always felt too wandering and the pitches were too short to call classic. The best part is the jamming on pitch #2 (all 20' of it, if that) out to the right of the ledge, as the position and rock are truly good.
This route was overhyped for me and has the same reputation among others I've talked to. It has a short section at the end that is striking, but it's so short you almost don't notice. I don't think it's the classic line everyone makes it out to be. Even so, the fact that it's a two pitch 5.6 in the Red makes for good multi-pitch practice for beginner climbers.
Fortress Wall
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