Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.)
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Late afternoon light casts a glow as George gets a...
The route is currently the first one you come to on your left on The East Wall of The Grotto, right around the corner from A Day with Dr. Diablo
. This is a very continuous route at this grade and is actually not as bad as originally thought. There is some vertical Diablo type climbing that starts in a dihedral for 3 bolts then continues through four more bolts to a two bolt anchor. The crux is right between the 3rd and 5th bolts on not so positive holds that are similar to the ones found on Good
but a lot smaller and worse. I think the route is slightly technical, very continuous, and has an endurance crux. K.S.R. may also be used as an approach(5.8 runout) to The Skyline Arete
and "Medusa" on the upper tier
of The East Wall of The Grotto.
Same as for Diablo Canyon.
Seven quickdraws to a two bolt chained anchor. Small to medium cams(optional) for the 5.8 runout if continuing to the upper tier. There is a bombproof two bolt anchor on the upper tier that you can get off with a 60 meter rope to the north side of the KSR buttress.
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Aug 14, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
While installing Under Powered I had the opportunity to finally clean off some of the bad rock on KSR. I dont htink the grade has changed at all, some former holds are gone, some new ones arrived. Hoping its a little safer now, not claiming its totally clean, just better. I do feel that its way more enjoyable without worrying if your hold will break your tooth.