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Kennel Boy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: October 1998, Dave Kelly and Robert Sagerman
Page Views: 873
Submitted By: James Colin Walsh on Oct 18, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: The rope comes down the general vicinity of Kennel...

Description 

A surprisingly nice climb with fun moves on perfect rock. Start by putting a piece in the small slot above the starting roof. Climb up the corner/arete on the roof's right side to the large ledge above. Then make some unprotected 5.9 face moves up to a fixed pin. A short finger crack above leads to balance moves, a bolt, and the crux. Continue to a tree belay.

Location 

This route is five feet to the left of Rock Garden and starts under the far right hand side of the prominent roof/overlap seven to ten feet off the ground on the left side of the cliff. Look for a small slot for a wire at the lip, a fixed pin jutting out in the middle of the climb, and a bolt high above on a clean white headwall. To descend, rappel from the tree at the climb's finish.

Protection 

Bring a small rack with an emphasis on small wires/TCUS to supplement the fixed pin and bolt. Tree anchor on top.


Photos of Kennel Boy Slideshow Add Photo
Closer look at the center of Kennel Boy
BETA PHOTO: Closer look at the center of Kennel Boy

Comments on Kennel Boy Add Comment
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By JayMorse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Oct 7, 2013

This a very fun route. It was very well protected with a metolius 0 and 1. Make sure to have a small cam or two. The only move that felt 5.10 is the top at which is protected by the bolt. The rest felt 5.9- to me. There is a 5.4 to the right you could lead up to set a perfect toprope for this route.
By Gabriel Faucher
Sep 23, 2014

ugly ending, where does it end?
By Matt Tse
May 21, 2015

the guide book had the route ending just above the bolt on the blank face where there is a jug on top although I'm not sure whether or not the arete to the right is en route for this one. I called it once my chest was level with that bolt. great climb that is both athletic and somewhat technical.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
1 day ago

Starting up under the right side of the roof was easy but I found pulling over the arete and getting up to be a bit tricky. There are some side pulls but a lot of the overlaps are rounded.

We TR'd this after Rock Garden, using a draw on the bolt near the top as a directional. If you slip pulling onto the arete at the bottom you can grate across the roof lip as the rope draws plum so the belayer should be mindful of this just in case.

The middle face climbing and finger crack are very fun. As Jerry mentions in his guidebook, this route does seem a bit contrived. Naturally you would climb out the broken rock on the left side of the upper section. As mentioned above, balance over to the scoop at the top of the wall and mantle up on some slopey mounds onto the nice ledge / tree anchor.
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