||Trad, Ice, 7 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
|Original: ||WI4 [details]|
|FA: ||M. Kennedy|
|Page Views: ||5,790|
|Submitted By: ||eDixon on Jan 17, 2011|
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BETA PHOTO: The business.
Climb can be broken up many ways, and many might prefer to simul sections of moderate terrain.
P1. Ascend a couple short steps of easy ice or mixed that finish at a tree with slings (WI3, ~100').
A short stretch of snow leads to the obvious second pitch.
P2. Continue up a long pitch of usually thin ice. Belay at fixed rock gear in the left wall (WI4, ~175').
P3/4. Climb 300-400' of snow and short easy ice or mixed steps. This leads to the upper gully.
P5. Continue up low-angle but usually thin ice leading up the start of the upper gully. Belay at fixed pin on the right (WI3/4, ~160')
P6. The gully gets a little steeper, and the ice is still usually thin. Belay at a nest of fixed rock gear in the left wall (WI3/4, ~200).
P7. This is the steepest and best part of the upper gully. Belay off screws or continue up snow to a tree with slings (WI4, ~180').
A selection of screws short - medium and a few pins.
By Greg Sievers
From: Bozeman, MT
Feb 15, 2011
2-10-11: a very nasty, wet avalanche ripped down this gully on Saturday with 2 teams of 5 people in it. No one was hurt, but someone needed a spatula to clean out their shorts afterwords.
Be VERY careful on these south-facing routes on warm, sunny days following storms!!