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Northeast Rib, Devil's Thumb (9,077')<br /><br />Immediately after Dave Stutzman and Bob Plumb climbed this route in 1977, I got to see their slides. Bob and I worked in an orchard then. Might still be waiting for a repeat. The weather may not have had a repeat either since 1977, ten cloudless days. Back in Wenatchee, temperatures were above 110F.<br /><br />Bob and Dave did this as an escape from the legendary North Face (yellow line). One magazine article reported the rib as rotten and scary.  That only fits what Dave and Bob told me about the North Face.  After they traversed off the face, they told me the rib was an excellent rock climb. My hope is that it is the safest way up and down the Devils Thumb. <br /><br />This peak looks a lot better dry.  Pretty sure this is a USGS net photo.

BETA PHOTO: Northeast Rib, Devil's Thumb (9,077')

Immediately...


Mt Huntington, West Face Couloir.  <br /><br />Photo from the net by Talkeetna Air Taxi.  They hopefully don't mind me using their photo to look for a partner, before hiring them.

Mt Huntington, West Face Couloir.

Photo from th...


The Gorge of Despair, Kings Canyon National Park.  A 6,500' climb over the Monarch Divide, followed by a 1,400' cross-country decent, is the approach for the long "hogback" called the Cobra.  The sunny face to ridge is 5.9.  The steep, shady, face has a route with two pitches of 5.11 perfection.<br />

The Gorge of Despair, Kings Canyon National Park. ...

Twenty miles up the Merced from Yosemite, past Washburn Lake, the trail passes by this 2,000' piece of golden granite.

Twenty miles up the Merced from Yosemite, past Was...

Sorcerer Needle. Car trouble chased us out before we could try any routes.  I expect to never see a better rock.  <br /><br />This is a photo by Scotty Nelson, found on MP.

Sorcerer Needle. Car trouble chased us out before ...

I call it the Shady Giant.  Ten miles of trail in, The base of the steepness is @ 6,400'.  Check out the trail up the left, east, gully!  Hint:  There is a wilderness hot springs 3.6 miles further up the approach trail.  <br /><br />Doug, who runs the excellent hostel in Lone Pine, told me he did a direct on this face long ago.

I call it the Shady Giant. Ten miles of trail in,...

Crusher and Strappo's great find in the Lost Creek Wilderness.  It's called "Hmmm!  Fresh Meat!" (5.10).  Red bolts are end of first pitch. Blue is the second belay.

Crusher and Strappo's great find in the Lost Creek...

Pitch one of Hmmm! Fresh Meat!

Pitch one of Hmmm! Fresh Meat!

Please don't re-post this photo by John Scurlock.  More of his amazing shots are found at pbase.com.  <br /><br />Long standing proj...Robson, North Face.  Taken in May, 2008.

Please don't re-post this photo by John Scurlock. ...

Mt Deborah, West Face.  Not easy to find a good shot of the "Alpamayo of the Northern Hemisphere."

Mt Deborah, West Face. Not easy to find a good sh...

Moose's Tooth, the Krakauer route of course.

Moose's Tooth, the Krakauer route of course.

The amazing off-width on Tarryall Tower.<br /><br />Will McDonald's photo from MP.

The amazing off-width on Tarryall Tower.

Will McD...


New route on Waddington, maybe.  The red is the new idea.  Yellow is the Sierra Club/Bravo Glacier route.<br /><br />Another Scurlock photo.  Please don't re-post.  His incredible work is found at pbase.com

New route on Waddington, maybe. The red is the ne...