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Kemosabe and Tonto 

5.9

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
FA: Ted Chapin & Jim Boone, 1979
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Dec 20, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: "Kemosabe and Tonto".
Photo by Blitzo.


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Description 

This route starts at the base of the large cleft and next to the yuccas. Climb the crack system directly to the top. The original party rated this route 5.9. I would rate it 10a/10b; it's strenuous with a tricky start.


Protection 

Standard rack



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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 9, 2006
rating: 5.9

Good route- a little balancy to start and some 'bad' placements may confuse the protection issue with an inexperienced leader. Albeit that I think this route is only 5.9, I'd agree that it would be a poor route to try to push your limits on.The route was fun though, at ~35 meters length, it checks in longer than most real hidden valley routes. Fun overall with tight grain and good rock most of the way. Nice variety to the climbing movement- it deserves more traffic than it gets.

By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Feb 23, 2007

Interesting route name.

Kemosabe is a 10a in Red Rocks to the left of The Ragged Edges Wall. To the right is the 5.5 Tonto.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 4, 2009
rating: 5.10a

Nice route up the center of an obvious wall! I also consider this route to be 5.10-. The crux roof at about 2/3rds the way up is tricky and committing but protects very well. The start is tricky and unprotected for the first 10 feet but has a decent landing if you blow it. You can setup a super TR with a 70m (bolted rap anchor is just left of the top of the route). Otherwise take two ropes to rap.

By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Jan 17, 2012
rating: 5.10 PG13

This route deserves 3 stars and a 5.10 rating. A bouldery start followed by engaging, technical climbing with a couple of no-hands rest stops. Bomber pro except for a couple of 5.easy sections. The crux roof protects well but felt really awkward and burly -- definitely harder than other solid 5.10's at JTree. Maybe I missed something. There's a 5.8 variation a few feet to the left if you don't like what you see.

You can rap the route with one 60m rope - it barely reaches but knot the ends anyway!

By Colin Schour
From: Big Bear Lake, CA
Mar 5, 2012
rating: 5.9+

I really liked this route. Three stars and a 5.9+ rating. At the roof, throw a nut in (or two, like I did), and trust that jam!