Kelly's Rock Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Far left side of Kelly's Rock 1. K-1 (5.10a) 2. ...
|In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise|
Kelly's Rock borders a dry wash and consists of solid, rough limestone. It faces roughly north.
There are over 20 bolted, named routes here from 5.8 to 5.13 with about equal numbers in the 9's, 10's, 11's, and 12's.
From the Woodbury Road turnoff drive 3.7 miles (3.2 according to Goss). Shortly after crossing the fourth cattle guard the parking for Black and Tan and Kelly's Rock is on the right. Walk back to the wash and turn right up the wash (or find a cairn-marked trail that cuts the corner to the wash). From the parking area to the base of the wall is approximately .2 miles (as measured using Google Earth).
Weather station 9.3 miles from here
27 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Kelly's Rock
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Kelly's Rock:
Demagogue 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
K-1 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 40'
K-5 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 50'
Tag Team 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
The Hookup 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Hubris 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
K-6 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 55'
K-8 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 60'
Mayhem 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 80'
The Heeler 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Zealot 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For Kelly's Rock
K-8 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c UT
: Saint George
: ... : Kelly's Rock
This route is named "k-8" because it originally was the eighth route from the left side. Now it about the 11th or 12th, so things have changed a little. Anyway, Todd Goss calls this "one of the best routes in Utah". Wow... strong statement! However, I am hard pressed to argue with him - I can't think of another one at the 11b grade that is as good as this. Great pockets and edges through a couple of roofs, everything but the kitchen sink on this line. ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
I wanna soak up the sun....
Tekoi Smith on some 5.8 at Kelly's
BETA PHOTO: Right Center section of Kelly's Rock 14. Another ...
BETA PHOTO: Kelly's Rock, right side.
BETA PHOTO: Left Center of Kelly's Rock 8. Anchors for Toples...
BETA PHOTO: Kelly's Rock, left side.
By Kenny Clark
From: State College, PA
May 23, 2011
I added a bunch of beta pictures with approximate bolt locations on most of the climbs for the left side. I was a little confused on some of the routes from the Goss book. If anyone has any extra information, especially concerning the unknown routes (FA, etc.), then let me know. I'll update the route descriptions.
I've enjoyed my experiences at Kelly's Rock immensely. The wall has so many different routes: easy jugs up runnels, thin slabs, overhanging boulder problems. What's not to love about this place?