Kelly's Rock Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Far left side of Kelly's Rock 1. K-1 (5.10a) 2. ...
|In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise|
Kelly's Rock borders a dry wash and consists of solid, rough limestone. It faces roughly north.
There are over 20 bolted, named routes here from 5.8 to 5.13 with about equal numbers in the 9's, 10's, 11's, and 12's.
From the Woodbury Road turnoff drive 3.7 miles (3.2 according to Goss). Shortly after crossing the fourth cattle guard the parking for Black and Tan and Kelly's Rock is on the right. Walk back to the wash and turn right up the wash (or find a cairn-marked trail that cuts the corner to the wash). From the parking area to the base of the wall is approximately .2 miles (as measured using Google Earth).
Weather station 9.3 miles from here
27 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Kelly's Rock
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Kelly's Rock:
Demagogue 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
K-1 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 40'
K-5 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 50'
Tag Team 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
The Hookup 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Hubris 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
K-8 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 60'
K-6 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 55'
Mayhem 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 80'
The Heeler 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Zealot 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For Kelly's Rock
The Heeler 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b UT
: Saint George
: ... : Kelly's Rock
Start by climbing up the steep slab on orange rock to reach the overhang. Get a good shake and punch it to pull the lip (crux). There's a good trick kneebar beta that really makes this not so tough. Gain a stance above the roof and follow positive runnels to the end. Fun!...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
I wanna soak up the sun....
BETA PHOTO: Right Center section of Kelly's Rock 14. Another ...
BETA PHOTO: Left Center of Kelly's Rock 8. Anchors for Toples...
Tekoi Smith on some 5.8 at Kelly's
BETA PHOTO: Kelly's Rock, left side.
BETA PHOTO: Kelly's Rock, right side.
By Kenny Clark
From: State College, PA
May 23, 2011
I added a bunch of beta pictures with approximate bolt locations on most of the climbs for the left side. I was a little confused on some of the routes from the Goss book. If anyone has any extra information, especially concerning the unknown routes (FA, etc.), then let me know. I'll update the route descriptions.
I've enjoyed my experiences at Kelly's Rock immensely. The wall has so many different routes: easy jugs up runnels, thin slabs, overhanging boulder problems. What's not to love about this place?