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Kelly Canyon

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Kelly Canyon  


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Elevation: 7,000'
Location: 35.0661, -111.6999 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 56,831
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Ryder on May 3, 2008
Forecast:
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Clear
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The long reach down low of Dope Lounge. Pic by Mud...

Description 

A peaceful ponderosa-forested canyon with tons of bouldering on cliffs and boulders of Coconino sandstone. Dramatic curving slashes stripe the walls, the result of lithified sand dunes deposited 260 million years ago. These slashes birth many slopers and incut rails, lending to a unique and distinctly technical sort of climbing. Rock quality at Kelly is notoriously variable: bullet-hard in some places, horribly sandy and crumbly elsewhere. Tread carefully, especially on less-trafficked problems, and don't forget to bring a soft-bristled brush. Many of the problems here are moderately to seriously highball and most have committing, sloping topouts so multiple pads and spotters are pretty much essential. The prime season for Kelly Canyon is September through November when it's cold and dry. Summers can be toasty, though it's easy to find shade. However, winter is generally a bust - the road typically closes by late November, and the canyon's east-west orientation blocks out most sunlight, meaning large snowdrifts and deep pools that won't dry out. Unless it is an exceptionally warm and snow-free winter, don't plan on coming between the first heavy snow and perhaps the middle of April. This is a good place to forget about names and grades, to just find some rock that inspires you and throw yourself at it. Having said that, here are some names and grades.

Getting There 

From downtown Flagstaff, follow Milton Rd. south until it becomes Interstate 17, then continue about 8 miles to the Kelly Canyon Rd. exit. Turn right (west) at the overpass and head through the gate, then immediately turn right (north). This dirt road (FR 631) is passable in most vehicles if you drive carefully. Drive a couple miles staying right at all forks, passing a big shooting pit full of garbage (yuck), until you see a fairly obvious parking area with a fire pit on the right. An obvious trail leads quickly to the bottom of the canyon - this is the Trailer Park. Please stay on the trail.


Climbing Season



Weather station 2.3 miles from here

71 Total Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',34],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',25],['V4-5',20],['V6-7',18],['V8-9',5],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kelly Canyon:
Aloha Left Arete   V1-2 5     Boulder, 12'   East Kelly Canyon : Trailer Park
Iron Monkey   V2 5+     Boulder, 12'   East Kelly Canyon : Donkey Punch Area
Aloha Arete   V2 5+     Boulder, 12'   East Kelly Canyon : Trailer Park
Icy Mike   V2-3 5+     Boulder, 15'   East Kelly Canyon : Donkey Punch Area
Huck Finn   V3 6A PG13     Boulder, 18'   East Kelly Canyon : Donkey Punch Area
Triangle Arete   V3 6A     Boulder, 12'   East Kelly Canyon : Trailer Park
Jack and the Beanstock   V4 6B PG13     Boulder, 20'   West Kelly Canyon : Water Front Area
Gym Wall Center   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   East Kelly Canyon : Donkey Punch Area
Hot Carl   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   East Kelly Canyon : Trailer Park
Laid Back   V4 6B     Boulder, 10'   East Kelly Canyon : Trailer Park
Chinese Gangfight   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   East Kelly Canyon : Donkey Punch Area
Sloper Problem (aka The Impossible Undercling)   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   East Kelly Canyon : Trailer Park
Dope Lounge   V5+ 6C+ PG13     Boulder, 18'   East Kelly Canyon : Donkey Punch Area
Cleveland Steamer   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   East Kelly Canyon : Donkey Punch Area
Roof Problem Right   V6 7A     Boulder   East Kelly Canyon : Trailer Park
Donkey Punch   V6 7A PG13     Boulder, 15'   East Kelly Canyon : Donkey Punch Area
The Slab   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   East Kelly Canyon : Donkey Punch Area
The Traverse   V7-8 7B     Boulder, 30'   East Kelly Canyon : Arkansas & Traverse Wall
Mother Approved   V8 7B PG13     Boulder, 22'   East Kelly Canyon : Donkey Punch Area
Green Mile Direct   V9 7C     Boulder, 15'   East Kelly Canyon : Donkey Punch Area
Browse More Classics in Kelly Canyon

Featured Route For Kelly Canyon
Few moves into Earth

Earth V6 7A AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : Blue Marble Wall
Earth stand-starts on the obvious holds at chest level. Climb through series of good holds and pockets and into the initial crux. At the midway ledge rest it up and prep yourself for the committing, no going back, second half. True crux is above the Midway Ledge....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Local Information for Kelly Canyon
Photos of Kelly Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Another beautiful day at Kelly. Jeff Snyder on awesome rails at the Warm Up Wall
Another beautiful day at Kelly. Jeff Snyder on awe...
An extendable brush is a nice accessory, especially early in the season.
An extendable brush is a nice accessory, especiall...

Comments on Kelly Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
3 days ago
CONDITION REPORT 
Road Closure Reminder:
The final road to Kelly Canyon is officially closed and should no longer be used! The Forest Service has made it clear that users should no longer be driving all the way to the old trailhead. Giant boulders now guard the road but incompetent users have begun to drive around this closure. Please respect this closure and DO NOT drive off road to avoid the road closure. DONT BE LAZY, PARK AT THE ROAD CLOSURE!! This will effect our overall access to this amazing area. The extra hike only takes a few minutes!
By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 9, 2009
One of the good lip holds on Dope Lounge was broken off recently during a week of rain. Please DO NOT climb here shortly after heavy rain or snow. The rock is soft and easy to break when it is soaked.
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
May 25, 2011


Enjoy the stone!
By m.qaden.everett
Jul 24, 2011
fun choss.
By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
May 13, 2012
I'm not sure what the rules and regulations for camping or accessing the canyon, but I thought I would throw out this heads up to other out-of-towners. I camped at Kelly Canyon last Thursday night (5/10) with no problems. Bouldered at Kelly Friday morning, then went to the Draw for the afternoon. Exhausted from a good day of bouldering, I grabbed a slice of pizza in town and drove back to Kelly. The forest road was closed, gates locked. I had to hike in, take down camp and hike back out to the highway.

Might be a good idea to check with Coconino NF or some locals before camping at the canyon...
By David Arrasmith
Oct 7, 2013
Found some climbing gear left by the group with the person who hurt his ankle. If this is your stuff please call (916) 956-0674.
No spammers pls, I will request details of the stuff left from all callers.
By JohnniMo
May 12, 2014
The last right fork before the parking area is now blocked by three big rocks. Park above the shooting pit and hike to the old parking area with the fire pit on the right.